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Black Iron Pipe Reamer?
Harvey Ramer
Member Posts: 2,261
What is the best Reamer for black iron pipe. Something handheld or used with a cordless drill. Not talking about the reamers that come with, and are mounted to, the threading machines.
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Comments
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what size pipe? I have a ridgid 2s that'll go to 2" when I don't feel like dragging along the 300. haven't seen anything for 2" that'll go on the end of a drill.5
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only ones I know of are the Ridgid handheld type with a ratchet handle. They make two types, straight flutes for using with a pipe machine and the spiral type supposed to be used by hand only--no pipe machine. I have use the spiral with a pipe machine but you have to use some caution so it doesn't get caught and explode the pipe.
If I use a hand threader or a 700 power drive to thread I usually cut with a portaband--no burr to ream and no pipe cutter to crank5 -
I use a round file because I couldn't see spending the money on a reamer due to the amount I'd use it.
But the only ones I ever see talked about are Ridgids.Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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Go to rems5
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I use the straight flute reamer in my ratchet handle for the reason you mentioned with the spiral. I also only use straight flute easy outs more than spiral for the same reason.EBEBRATT-Ed said:only ones I know of are the Ridgid handheld type with a ratchet handle. They make two types, straight flutes for using with a pipe machine and the spiral type supposed to be used by hand only--no pipe machine. I have use the spiral with a pipe machine but you have to use some caution so it doesn't get caught and explode the pipe.
If I use a hand threader or a 700 power drive to thread I usually cut with a portaband--no burr to ream and no pipe cutter to crank6 -
Electric die grinder. Unless sparks are a concern in your work area.5
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Thanks guys.0
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I use the spiral with my rigid 300 or by hand. How could you hold it that long to explode the pipe? I have run it until the pipe was sharp and used it to cut out gasket material or a small hole in bricks or cement blocks.Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.
cell # 413-841-6726
https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/charles-garrity-plumbing-and-heating5 -
I mentioned the die grinder it is pretty handy for other things also. An investment in a multi use tool is always a cost effective one. It would seem from Harvey's original post something portable light, and effective is a need maybe for a particular situation. More work than by hand would warrant yet not so much that conventional means would warrant.5
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You probably talking reaming all sizes. But my Rigid spiral/ratchet reamer is pretty worn out for the 1/2" size. So for 1/2" pipe I use the step bit (Unibit...Corbra bit) in a battery drill.
This bit is available in larger sizes but I've never tried any for pipe reaming.5 -
From Ridgid web site:◾ Model 2-S Spiral Ratchet Reamer – Self-feeding spiral design for extra-fast and easy hand reaming. Model 2-S Reamer is not suitable for power reaming.
◾ Models 2 and 3 Ratchet Reamers – Long taper design will not dig in. Suitable for use with power drives
I have used the spiral with a pipe machine as well and if you are careful it is fine. JMHO. But this is what Ridgid says.
To me the simple answer is a Porta Band. The blades last a long time, they cut fast, no burr no cranking a manual cutter.5 -
I use the 300 to cut the pipe also. Unless I am use the larger threader or the old Toledo 999 threader because it is late and I don't want to bother my neighbors with the noise.Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.
cell # 413-841-6726
https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/charles-garrity-plumbing-and-heating5 -
Unibits are really handy for reaming and many other uses. Or a small cordless like the Milwaukee HackZall.
On large piping jobs I would set up the Dewalt dry cut saw. That way you cut burr-free pipe, threaded rod, and uni strut with one tool. Copper tube also. A fairly big, heavy tool, howeverBob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
I agree with Hot Rod on the dry cut saw. We have 2 Milwaukees and there great tools. The blades are a bit pricey @ $140 or so but if you do a lot of cutting this is the best way. If you don't beat the saw an use it moderately the blades hold up well.
I am talking about the carbide metal cutting blades, not the abrasive blades which leave burrs like razors0 -
We bought a RAGE3 a few years back and love it -- but the blades are spendy as noted. Save them for where you really need them.0
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