New Steam Oil Boiler Issues
My wife & I recently bought a home and had a new steam oil boiler installed (Weil-Mclain SGO-4) to replace the 30-year old failing one we were using before. It was replaced a little less than a week ago and everything seemed to be working well, however we later noticed a large stream of water (not drops, but a strong stream) coming from one of the radiator air vents in the kitchen. Not from around the threads or anything but from the hole on top of the vent. I don't know very much about steam or oil systems and just assumed the vent had failed, so I bought a replacement, though that did not fix the issue. In addition to the water leak, the "water hammer" or banging noises in the house have increased quite dramatically compared to our previous boiler. This seemed like a much larger issue to me than a failed air vent so I've been trying to do some research, however this type of system is just completely new for me.
I had my wife text me a picture of the pressuretrol I think it's called, and it says the "Cut In" is set to just under 8 or so. Picture attached. From what I have read it is my understanding that this should be much lower -- like around 1 or 1.5. It also looks like the water gauge is very near full, around 7/8 I would say, and there is some kind of sediment on top of it. Attached a picture showing this in the background but it isn't very great quality, I can take a better one later.
My question is, could either of these be responsible for the leaking/spewing air vent, and if so how do I address them? And if they are not related but still an issue, how should I address them?
Thanks!
Comments
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Set that front dial on the Pressuretrol all the way down to .5PSI. Remove the one screw in the bottom middle of the front cover and inside you will see a white wheel. Set it to "1" facing the front of the unit.
The water in that gauge glass should be about 1/2 to not more that 2/3's the way up the glass. Remove some of the water.
The boiler needs to be skimmed to remove the oils from the new boiler and any new piping. The processs is simple, if they installed a skim port. It is time comsuming though as it needs to be done very slowly and may have to be done several times.
Hopefully they installed the near boiler piping (header, risers, and connections to the Mains properly but If you do the 3 things I suggested, that should correct the problem you are now experiencing.
Post some pictures of the boiler and the piping above it if you can.0 -
Thanks for the quick response. I'm at work at the moment but I will post some better or more comprehensive photos later tonight as well as do what you recommended. As far as the skim port, is it pretty self explanatory to locate/operate? Does it come standard on most new boilers or is it something I would have had to ask them to add?0
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Agreed post some pictures of the boiler piping. The pressure is way too high. Most vents are rated for around 3PSI and anything higher will ruin them. Even with the high perssure you shouldn't be getting huge volumes of water into the radiator like that. As Fred said skimming is needed, but post pictures of the piping so we can see if something else is amiss here.0
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It should have been installed as a matter of good installation practice but some installers simply don't put them in. If they skimmed the boiler after the installation, like they should have, it should be there. It will be a 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" pipe on the front or side of the boiler with either a fuull port ball valve or a cap/plug on it. When you post pic's we'll be able to tell if it's there.steamboilerhelp said:Thanks for the quick response. I'm at work at the moment but I will post some better or more comprehensive photos later tonight as well as do what you recommended. As far as the skim port, is it pretty self explanatory to locate/operate? Does it come standard on most new boilers or is it something I would have had to ask them to add?
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Alright, had my wife take some more pictures and send them over, let me know if these help at all. Also had her try to change the pressuretrol setting but she said it was already at "1"? Does that make any sense?0
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Looks like they hooked up the new boiler to the existing header. Ordinarily that would be fine, since it looks like a 3-inch header, but the last tee where the steam main come up from the header is also reducing the horizontal header pipe. This is a major no-no, since that will cause water to back up in the header and be carried into the system piping and radiators.
I bet whoever did the work did not bother to read the installation manual. Most such manuals have specific piping diagrams that specify the header to be full size until it elbows down toward the equalizer pipe.
Here is a good example of how to pipe a header. Like yours, this one comes up from the boiler as 2-inch pipe, then expands (to 2-1/2" on this one), and continues in that size, past two steam main takeoffs, until it drops into the equalizer.
http://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/132567/one-of-the-worst-maintained-oil-fired-boilers-weve-seen#latestAll Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
Found the piping diagram. Note that the boiler's steam outlets are 2-1/2". They say you can reduce these to 2" on the SGO-4, but I most certainly would not.All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
Interesting, thank you for the link and manual. Is this something I should be concerned about imminently fixing or is potentially dangerous? Is that likely the cause of the issues we are having or is it still most likely the pressuretrol setting and water cleaning/skimming?0
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It's probably a combination of all the issues. The pressuretrol is the easiest to fix, so do that first. You'll need a Real Steam Man to fix the header issue and do a proper skim.
Oh, and TURN OFF THE POWER to the boiler before you open the pressuretrol.
Where are you located?All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
Westchester, NY. Had a regular HVAC company install the new boiler -- probably should have done more research and asked around for a steam expert.0
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Not sure if he goes that far or not? Steamhead do you know? It's about 65 miles or so.
https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/thatcher-heating-and-air-conditioning
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Not sure either, but it can't hurt to ask. One of the owners posts here under the name "JStar" and he really knows his stuff.
Gateway and A Real Good Plumber also do well with steam. Go here and follow the instructions to get everyone's info:
https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
Thanks guys.0
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There's always an outside chance that the installer would stand by their work and do it properly with help from this site and the I&O manual. At the very least they could install a skim port. Can't hurt to ask. Just post here how they intend to change things.Two-pipe Trane vaporvacuum system; 1466 edr
Twinned, staged Slantfin TR50s piped into 4" header with Riello G400 burners; 240K lead, 200K lag Btus. Controlled by Taco Relay and Honeywell RTH6580WF0 -
The front Dial on your Pressuretrol say 8PSI. That should be adjusted down to .5PSI (half pound). The inside white dial may say "1" we haven't seen that yet.
That black plug in the boiler, next to the top of the Gauge Glass and between those two shielded electrical cables is your skim port. When you are ready to skim the boiler, turn the power off and make sure there is no steam in the boiler. Remove that plug and install a 6" to 8" (or longer if necessaary) pipe into that tapping and start the skim.0 -
I've been in touch with the installers today and they are supposed to get back to me soon. They seemed helpful and nice enough so I'm hopeful that they will correct any issues, I'm just impatient and would like to learn myself so that's why I'm posting here, hah.vaporvac said:There's always an outside chance that the installer would stand by their work and do it properly with help from this site and the I&O manual. At the very least they could install a skim port. Can't hurt to ask. Just post here how they intend to change things.
Ahhh got it, I think I misunderstood and thought there was only 1 adjustment for the pressuretrol. I see how it works now and will adjust accordingly. Regarding the skim port, thanks for the tip. Will grab a pipe and attempt to do that this weekend.Fred said:The front Dial on your Pressuretrol say 8PSI. That should be adjusted down to .5PSI (half pound). The inside white dial may say "1" we haven't seen that yet.
That black plug in the boiler, next to the top of the Gauge Glass and between those two shielded electrical cables is your skim port. When you are ready to skim the boiler, turn the power off and make sure there is no steam in the boiler. Remove that plug and install a 6" to 8" (or longer if necessaary) pipe into that tapping and start the skim.
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You got some very good advise here about what is technically,wrong with you recent install….No need for me to pipe in on that part….What I suggest is get a steam guy in there asap..have him write up your complaints and found causes…He will explain to you in detail…Send that copy to the installer and demand imediate response…What we see on pics could only be a small part of else may be wrong….How did the combustion test go? Make up air? Water treatment if needed? Chimney sizing, was it cleaned? Co detector? and WAS THERE A PERMIT,IF REQUIRED? Lots more to an install than piping, thats the easy part...1
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Al is another good choice.All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0
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