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Gushing water sounds from radiator boards

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micjoe
micjoe Member Posts: 16
The last week I am hearing water sounds coming from most my floor board radiators. Today I checked Boiler and the grey tank coming out of boiler is making clicking sounds and a small amount of water dripping from top - says air scoupe on top of it. Anyway I can Handle this issue myself , where do I begin,?

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  • micjoe
    micjoe Member Posts: 16
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  • micjoe
    micjoe Member Posts: 16
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  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
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    Hivent is no good. Those Taco 400's have gone down the toilet as of lately. I would have it replaced, Amtrol 700 has been my choice lately, have the air checked in that extrol, check water temps, and have the system purged. This I would recommend a pro from here perhaps.
    micjoe
  • micjoe
    micjoe Member Posts: 16
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  • micjoe
    micjoe Member Posts: 16
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    Any thoughts do I let air out of that grey tank somehow- I triied to bleed my furnace and recycle water. Softer to no help
  • j a_2
    j a_2 Member Posts: 1,801
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    Sounds like your system is low on water…You need to find out where its leaking and repair it…If not already installed you might some day have a low water cutoff installed….Is your fill valve left open or closed…Most likely you have a watts 911 as your pressure and back flow assembly…If its noi filling lift the little lever on the top of the dome with the fill valve in the open position…Lots of time they stick….But do not leave the fill valve open it only masks problems….Oh boy the fill valve thing again,open or closed…Me closed...
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
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    The tank is an expansion tank that is, or should be, charged with 12-15 PSI air. How are you bleeding the system?
  • micjoe
    micjoe Member Posts: 16
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    Thanks billtwocase
  • micjoe
    micjoe Member Posts: 16
    edited March 2015
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    I meant I bleed it the lines let oil out from furnace - sounds like this is a different issue. Where is the fill valve j a?
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
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    looks like zero pressure to me too j a
  • j a_2
    j a_2 Member Posts: 1,801
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    On the 1/2 copper cold line coming from your domestic water
  • micjoe
    micjoe Member Posts: 16
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    How do I get pressure up- I also have well water and a pump in the bottom of my well
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
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    looks like an 1156 just under the draft control
  • micjoe
    micjoe Member Posts: 16
    edited March 2015
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    Ok do I look for a lever on the pipe? I have on - off valves where is the adjustment on cold water line and what is 1156 under the draft control mean - thanks guys
  • j a_2
    j a_2 Member Posts: 1,801
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    Trying to help and it should be easy,however your installer did a poor job on the install and failed to follow basic procedures The fill valve should be located on a branch tee just under the expansion tank….Tap the bottom of the tank, is it hollow or solid? solid means it has failed as its filled with water…Its reason is to provide room for expansion of the water at a rate of about 5 %…..A failed one normally shows up as a dripping relief valve...
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
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    The auto feed valve is a Watts 1156. What does your pressure gauge read?
  • micjoe
    micjoe Member Posts: 16
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    T
    he
  • micjoe
    micjoe Member Posts: 16
    edited March 2015
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    The blue item under expansion is that the fill valve- ??I don't have a gage on water just my furnace is that what u wanted ?? I also have a water softener system feeding into the system. The dripping water is coming out of the the silver thing above tAsco air scope. The expansion tank doesn't appear to be solid or evident of heavy water in it
  • micjoe
    micjoe Member Posts: 16
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  • j a_2
    j a_2 Member Posts: 1,801
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    the last pic posted is the como back flow fill regulator….the leaking silver thing is the hyhat made by watts on op of the air separator….
  • micjoe
    micjoe Member Posts: 16
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    Is that the fill valve where blue tag is
  • micjoe
    micjoe Member Posts: 16
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    Ok in the last pick try to open the fill valve??
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
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    Nice. Backflow installed after the feed valve. I would close the cap on the leaking hivent, and give the lever on the feed a quick lift. Watch your pressure gauge, and just in case, shut the valve off before it when it reaches about 15
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
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    I would plan on replacing the combo feed/backflow preventer. The installer was nice enough to use an iron nipple between them. Most likely all is plugged with rust
  • micjoe
    micjoe Member Posts: 16
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    Ok will do thanks billtwocase
  • micjoe
    micjoe Member Posts: 16
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    update the pros replace the hivent and combo regulator and all is well now- thanks guys
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
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    Glad to hear that you are back in business.
  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265
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    What's the quality of your water that you are putting in that heating system? If the PH is very low, and you are using a water softener, you can add a lot of salt to the system which becomes corrosive. If the well water being treated has a high PPM iron content and the softener is being used to filter iron as a form of hardness, it will be corrosive to the system. Copper, Cast Iron and steel have a wonderful el

    When you see float vents leak into Extrol tanks, and they are all stained red and rusty, its because the boiler is falling apart.

    Taco 400 Float Vents work as well as any other float vent in my experience. If the system pressure is allowed to go to zero at the boiler, it will make steam and vent through the can vents. Just like that one. I used to change a few dozen per year. One day, after changing one a few months before, I started leaving thr caps tight. As usual, I never had a air bound system, and the world didn't stop, the earth didn't to a 180 degree on its axis.

    If they are new, once they have done their job of venting, leave the caps tight. They ARE repairable. Easily. Anyone know of a major supplier who stocks them? Or are the "Special Order" parts more costly than the whole new vent.

    Another lock up comment: