How to bleed just 1 zone

docjone5

Hi, I have had some heating problems and have asked a question before. I have ruled out everything in my non working heat zone and figure it's either air in the zone or a frozen pipe.
I have tried to bleed at the register bleeders and I get cold water but no air. Is there a way to bleed the zone in the basement? (Zone that is in question is at far left of picture).

wogpa67

zone 1?
In the 2nd pic the pump that is in the vertical position is installed incorrectly.

docjone5

Yeah zone 1 is far left in 1st pic. That is the heat less zone.
The 2nd pic pump is installed incorrectly? Oh that is bad. (P.s. I did not install this system, I am just dumb homeowner).
What does incorrect mean? Backward?

docjone5

Here is a side question. Zone 2 on this system no matter what I set the thermostat to the temp goes to 73 to 75 degrees no matter what.

wogpa67

The motor is mounted vertically. It should only be mounted with the motor on a horizontal plane.
What type of emitters do you have? BB, Ci Rads?

wogpa67

What type Tstat's do you have?

docjone5

They are honeywells

docjone5

The emitters are all baseboard

bmwpowere36m3

To purge a zone, close all the return and supply valves on the other zones, except the one you want to purge.

Then on the zone you want to purge, turn the ball valve (longer handle) on the return side to direct flow from the loop out to the drain port and open the drain port ball valve (shorter handle).

When done purging, close the drain port ball valve and set the other ball valve back where it was before (handle pointing up). Finally re-open all the ball valve on the other zones.

As far as the circulator in the second pic (the red one in the back), its mounted with the motor pointing vertically. That's not recommended for service life. The cylindrical portion of the circ should be pointing horizontally like the other circs in your pictures.

docjone5

Is it worth at some point (not in the winter) to have that pump remounted horizontal?

Thank you very much for your help and answers!

wogpa67

Turn off power also. No need to dead head those other pumps if you get a heat call.On the Tstat 's they are probably setup for hot air. You will need to get into the installer setup to verify.

bmwpowere36m3

They look like Grundfos swivel flanges… so it would be as simple as loosening them up and rotating the circ. However the current wiring might get in the way or make it more difficult.

Overall it looks like a very nice and neat job!

wogpa67

You could shut off power. Shut the isolation flanges on that pump. Loosen the 4 bolts and rotate the pump. Then you would need to take out the 4 Allen bolts on the motor and rotate it so the electrical box faces up. You may or may not have to disconnect power wiring to the pump.

Hilly

Not to be somebody looking for issues but I don't believe pex should be on that relief valve. I believe I'm correct that of a relief valve is to open during proper operation then the reasoning would indicate the water temperatures are exceeding the pex limitations.... If I'm wrong I'd love for somebody to explain so that I can know the proper answer. (This forum is my continuing education program, I'm mostly here to learn)

SWEI

Wouldn't pass around here. CTS sized CPVC will...

wogpa67

Hilly you are correct. The relief valve opening shall not be reduced

Unknown

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icesailor

Not that I ever did it, but don't some wet rotor pump manufacturers state that circulators can be mounted on their heads if the system pressure is maintained over 20+# to squish the air head and lubricate the motor?

Is Grundfos one of them?

I saw quite a few mounted that way and were working. Before I made an issue about it, I researched it out and found it is acceptable to do it that way.

Just asking.

Hilly

Yes you're correct, I too read that in a Grundfos I/O.

bmwpowere36m3

Hilly said:

Not to be somebody looking for issues but I don't believe pex should be on that relief valve. I believe I'm correct that of a relief valve is to open during proper operation then the reasoning would indicate the water temperatures are exceeding the pex limitations.... If I'm wrong I'd love for somebody to explain so that I can know the proper answer. (This forum is my continuing education program, I'm mostly here to learn)

Some areas allow it... typically "PEX" is rated for 180* at 100psi sustained. In a T&P application even if the water temps get to 210-230* its for a short amount of time and the pipe isn't under much pressure. PEX's melting point is on the order of 320-374*

Watts makes one from PE and says its UPC and IAPMO listed and ASME approved. However you local building inspector will have the last say on that.

wogpa67

Taco says it's ok but like stated you have to maintain 20 psi. Grundfos says no.

icesailor

wogpa67 said:

Taco says it's ok but like stated you have to maintain 20 psi. Grundfos says no.

Look farther. Grundfos might say yes and specify how it is done. They use a "Not recommended, but when you do,,," Type of thingy. I don't remember any "Shall NOT" in the instructions, "Shall" is mandatory in legal terms.

wogpa67

http://s3.supplyhouse.com/product_files/UPS15-58FC-install.pdf

icesailor

wogpa67 said:

http://s3.supplyhouse.com/product_files/UPS15-58FC-install.pdf

Like I said, I never installed any Grundfos pumps as New. Only replacements. I wasn't about to face any blowback from customers where I re-piped their circulators.

I only installed them pumps with the shafts in a horizontal plane. So it wasn't anything I worried about. I think the first time I saw a pump on its head, it was a Grundfos installed by an Airhead. I asked about it and the reply must have come from a taco instruction sheet.

Like Hatterasguy says: RTFIM