Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.

2 zones, 2 pumps, 2 stats

tomsplbg
tomsplbg Member Posts: 10
edited February 2015 in Controls
I have a customer who has a 2 zone system each with its own pump, stat, and relay. 2nd floor zone is conolled by a honeywell RA832A1066 & the other relay is a Taco one zone. The first floor stat is disconnected and the XX terminals on the 832 are wired into the RW terminals on the taco. The 6 & 5 terminals on the Taco go to the boiler. My question is can I splice the XX terminals on the 832 into the 6 & 5 terminals on the taco that go to the aquastat and reconnect the first floor stat up to the RW terminals on the Taco so the first floor zone is controlled by a stat again. I beleive this is how it should be wired but im not 100% sure
Btw, the second floor stat is connected to the 832

Comments

  • Empire_2
    Empire_2 Member Posts: 2,343
    W/O doing research on the controls, which pictures would have helped, you still need to have individual control over each pump for each stat. I think your 832 is shot for some reason and you want to splice into the Taco control...? If so sounds like you will not have independent control for 1st and 2nd floor pumps. Yea, snap a picture if you can. 2 stats are not viable with one switching relay to control 2 zones.


    Mike T.
  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265
    Its complex. The XX terminals went to the TT terminals on the burner/boiler controller. With the ZR501, depending on how it is wired, whatever you use as the dry contacts with no power on them, that will automatically switch closed when the thermostat calls, needs to have two low voltage wires to the same TT terminals on the boiler/burner. If you have oil and a tankless coil, they both need to be wired through something with ZC/ZR terminals to power the circulators.

    Your question is a complex electrical control problem to those that don't understand boiler control wiring.
  • tomsplbg
    tomsplbg Member Posts: 10
    I need a boiler wiring for dummies book!! :0)
  • tomsplbg
    tomsplbg Member Posts: 10
    There are 2 relays. An 832a & a taco 1 zone.
  • tomsplbg
    tomsplbg Member Posts: 10
    Lol! I cant post pics. Looks like the site needs to be updated for smartphone use
  • tomsplbg
    tomsplbg Member Posts: 10
    Wait! I'm an idiot!!! This is the taco relay. The other is the 832a.
  • tomsplbg
    tomsplbg Member Posts: 10
    The taco is supposed to control the 1st floor. The first floor t stat is discinnected. The Xx terminals on the 832 go into the rw terminals on the taco. Isnt the rw terminals supposed to have the t stat wires for the first floor hooked up to it?
  • tomsplbg
    tomsplbg Member Posts: 10
    the taco & 832 both are wired to only 1 pump.
  • tomsplbg
    tomsplbg Member Posts: 10
    So the XX terminals on the honeywell and the TT terminals on the taco BOTH should connect to the boiler ( at the same corosponding terminals ).And the t stat for the first floor should be connected to the relay that controls the first floor zone circulator. Am I correct?
  • Empire_2
    Empire_2 Member Posts: 2,343
    OK, I see what was done. At some point, someone used the 2nd floor stat to control the HW pump relay, which energized the taco pump for the first floor. Why, I don't know. Provided both pumps work and are hooked up to run their respective zones for 1st and 2nd floor zones, The first floor t-stat which controls the taco pump relay will energize the first floor pump, and the 2nd floor t-stat goes to the HW pump relay T-T terminals. T-stat connections are to the T-T terminals. X-X off the HW relay will go to the boiler, and N/O-Com on the taco will also go to the boiler.


    Mike T.
  • Empire_2
    Empire_2 Member Posts: 2,343
    Sorry it took so long, but was not sure what you were trying to explain.


    Mike T.
  • tomsplbg
    tomsplbg Member Posts: 10
    Thats what I thought needs to happen.
    Why would someone use 1 stat for a 2 zone system is what I've been trying to figure out.....both pumps do work.
    I just wasn't sure if the xx terminals and the n/o / com terminals both going to the boiler would double the voltage.
    Like I said, i need a boiler wiring for dummies book.
    Thanks
  • Empire_2
    Empire_2 Member Posts: 2,343
    Like I said I cannot imagine why it was done.....? Both circuits are in parallel to the boiler and most likely energize a circuit provided by power from boiler (24 vac). You can add 20 more zones like that and it's nothing more than circuit completed thru your pump relays,.....No worries as to voltage as they all perform the same duty's. Pump relay contacts just allow the boiler to complete it own activating circuit. Good, I'm glad you solved the problem, good job.... Don't ever be afraid to ask ANY kind of question. If I don't have the answer, MANY other here are also professionals and can get you to the proper conclusion.


    Peace;

    Mike T.
  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265
    edited February 2015
    You don't understand what was TRIED to be done, but wasn't.

    Take the R832.

    The two thermostat wires (low voltage) connect to the TT terminals. Were not dealing with the XX terminals yet. The line voltage goes to #1 and #2. That powers the control and low voltage control that operates the relay. Wires #3 and #4 go to power the circulator. When the thermostat closes and makes a call, the relay closes and energizes #3 and #4, starting the circulator pump. When the thermostat calls, the pump starts. You want the burner to start. That also closes dry contacts on the control that energize X-X which will be connected to TT on the boiler control that starts the burner. Only the thermostat and pump that are connected to the 832 will run. Trust me. That was the original zone.

    They added a zone.

    The Taco ZR501 is a replacement relay that will replace ANY heating relay like it. It will replace any Honeywell or white rogers relay that is made to do heating switching relays. You just have to connect the proper wires to the proper terminals. It wires up just like a 832. Once you figure out how the control wires up like a 832, it operates just like the old one. Its that they BOTH must start the burner, but NOT each others respective circulators. Each relay when jumped will start the burner AND the circulator that the relay controls, but NOT the other relay.

    Sparky Wannabe didn't understand how the SR501 works. The first time I saw a Taco 501 was the last time I bought and installed a 845 relay. The 501 is just too handy and easy.

    I think that the 501 was wired wrong.

    Here's the SR501 wiring diagram.

    http://www.torrco.com/DOCUMENTS/102-169.pdf

  • SWEI
    SWEI Member Posts: 7,356
    edited February 2015
    And the Caleffi ZSR-101, a direct competitor.
  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265
    SWEI said:

    And the Caleffi ZSR-101, a direct competitor.

    That may be. I only had access to the Taco ones.

    Taco and Caleffi were once engaged. The engagement was broken off. I've often wondered who benefited the most. I remember the Eat & Meet I went to where they showed us the Taco SR501 and how it would replace any switching relay made, a direct replacement for all.

    For me? No more Honeywell 800 Series relays.

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 14,867
    I don't remember in my 8 years at Caleffi any engagement?

    I like and respect Taco, we like Taco. We show their products in several idronics and on webinars, and credit them for their work and pioneering in the industry.
    We reached out with some opportunity to work together, from what I understand.
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265
    Way back to before then.

    Taco had junk for a decent float vent. No better than a Amtrol 700. Then, back last century, they came out with the Taco 400. Cast brass with a top that came off and you could repair it if you felt like it. It had "Made In Italy" right on the side of the castings. Things changed during the last century.

    Far better that the Norca sweat gate valves of the 1970's. Every discount wholesaler sent them with every job. They were of such quality, that the quality guys took the nice painted ZMAC handles off and put the valves in the scrap barrel. It cost more to remove the handle than it did to take out a bad one and replace it with a Wolverine Brass one.
  • Empire_2
    Empire_2 Member Posts: 2,343
    Icesalor, was what I said incorrect? Not sure if you were referring to me.?
  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265
    Empire said:

    Icesalor, was what I said incorrect? Not sure if you were referring to me.?

    Nothing you or I say is incorrect. I was expressing my opinion or an experience of mine. I was trying to explain how I understood them to be wired and how they were supposed to work. My experience was with a lot that were mis-wired and how I had to come to understand so I could fix them.

    Unless you understand, it is as hard to wire an R832 to a R845 as it is to wire a SR501 Taco relay to either of the others until you understand how they work and what they will do.
  • Empire_2
    Empire_2 Member Posts: 2,343
    No Problem here.