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How hard is it to remove furnace cement?

ChrisJ
ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,401
edited January 2015 in THE MAIN WALL
I'll be changing the drafthood on my WM EG-45 tomorrow to the EG-40 hood (along wtih the EG-40 burner) and I used some furnace cement along the bottom edge as the instructions called for.

Also, depending on how hard this stuff is to clean off, I would like to remove the collector from the block and reinstall it as it's in the wrong spot to line up with the factory holes on the drafthood. When I installed the collector I put a decent amount of cement on the block and smooshed the collector down into it on the advice from a friend, and then cleaned it up and made a nice tapered finish using a long screwdriver. Not sure if I feel that was the best way now or not, I suspect it was a lot of unnecessary work looking back on it.

How hard is this stuff to break loose and clean off? I installed the boiler 4 years ago. I'll be pulling the burner tray out as well so debris falling down aren't a big deal as I'll vacuum everything up before installing the new burner.

I've got a feeling I'll be leaving the collector in place and just elongating the holes in the new drafthood as I did in the previous one, but I'd rather make it correct this time around. It's been eating at me for four years. Elongating the holes doesn't expose anything as it's covered by the collector, but I hate the fact I made a mistake.

Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

Comments

  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,401
    Anyone?

    I'm about to start taking things apart.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • Snowmelt
    Snowmelt Member Posts: 1,428
    It's not hard at all, pretty much like drywall spacklin
    ChrisJ
  • ww
    ww Member Posts: 298
    chris,
    just try and get a scraper and get the looser stuff out of the way. then use a wire brush as well or even a wire wheel on on a drill or grinder. see how that works out. just use heavy gloves, a respirator or mask and eye protection. sometimes these wire tools touch your hands and debris flies around.
    ChrisJ
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,401
    I'm working on the burner right now and they changed the manifold. The bung on the new one is a half inch higher than the old so I need to run and get a nipple.

    Damn WM! :)

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • Mark N
    Mark N Member Posts: 1,137
    Why mess with this a such a cold day? Best left for a mild day.
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,401
    Mark N said:

    Why mess with this a such a cold day? Best left for a mild day.

    Already done.

    As far as why, because the next 7 days is a perfect test for this modification.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • Mark N
    Mark N Member Posts: 1,137
    Ok good luck
  • vaporvac
    vaporvac Member Posts: 1,520
    You have it bad, chrisj.
    Two-pipe Trane vaporvacuum system; 1466 edr
    Twinned, staged Slantfin TR50s piped into 4" header with Riello G400 burners; 240K lead, 200K lag Btus. Controlled by Taco Relay and Honeywell RTH6580WF

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