Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

Bell and Gossett 100 original chewing metal, but sealed on wet side

Options
wcs5050
wcs5050 Member Posts: 131
Customer wants to replace pumps connected to ~60 year old boiler with no isolation valves. I'm afraid draining down for pump replacement, and then a cold water refill will shock this thing to seal leakage/failure, never mind the other antique devices connected. I'm not going to own this beast. Of course he doesn't want a new boiler.
It sounds like B&G cooling blade is chafing the cowling, and it's throwing a lot of shavings. It is sealed on the wet side, and is circulating fluid/heat, but making a racket.
If these weren't connected to a 60 year old block, I would never consider a repair.
Does this sound like anything obvious to someone?
Thanks for your comments.

Comments

  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,063
    Options
    For me I have found that the motor/pump coupling can come apart or be loose on either shaft , still work and be noisey as hell. New couplings AND motor mounts have fixed this for me before; without cracking the wet side.
  • wcs5050
    wcs5050 Member Posts: 131
    Options
    Thanks JUGHNE. I've only removed, never dismantled these. It seems like the coupling would wear out, and that has to be what's flapping. I'll check the mounts too (if I go back).
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,063
    Options
    Too much oil softens the mounts, the motor settles down and the coupling, (universal joint) has to deflect to much with each RPM and wears out. I have not had always had good luck fixing anything on the wet side as most were about the age of what you're dealing with.
  • wcs5050
    wcs5050 Member Posts: 131
    Options
    I will advise if interest is shown on repair. I'm sorry to say it feels like a walk away.
  • DanHolohan
    DanHolohan Member, Moderator, Administrator Posts: 16,530
    Options
    The coupler is broken, probably because of the sagged motor mounts. I once saw a broken steel coupler cut right though the aluminum bearing assembly on this pump. The motor was hanging in space on its wire and the coupler was still spinning. Tough guy.
    Retired and loving it.
    billtwocase
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
    Options
    Best coupling to use is a Spiralink style on these. Motor mounts are not an issue
  • DanHolohan
    DanHolohan Member, Moderator, Administrator Posts: 16,530
    Options
    Very true. Lasts forever.
    Retired and loving it.
  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265
    Options

    Best coupling to use is a Spiralink style on these. Motor mounts are not an issue

    Mostly, they are not the issue. But when they are, it's hard to tell that they are bad. Its the rear/end one that is the problem. It throws the motor out of alignment, and allows the end of the motor to osculate in its axis. Do NOT use a coupler with plastic drivers. If the rear mount is bad, and the barely discernible vibration sets in, the springs will cut through the plastic universals like butter.

    B&G's are easy. Unlike Taco where the spring coupler preloads the bearing and the seal. Just remove the coupler from the bearing assembly shaft, remove the motor, then the coupler. Replace the coupler on the motor first, slide the motor and coupler on to the bearing. Tighten the set screw, and let her rip.

    If its 3 phase, make sure that the rotation is correct. The motor side of the coupler is supposed to have the springs PULL the pump side through its axis. Not PUSH the coupler like it is now that causes the vibration. Its because once the springs break, it is pushing it through its axis.

    Easy fix.

  • HEATON
    HEATON Member Posts: 118
    Options
    mounts are the issue!!!! over oiling and age cause sagging and miss alignment, spiralink lasts longer yes but eventually will fail! easy to tell mounts culprit by lack of obvious non symmetrical .. the are easy to change out and cheap " who said do it right or do it over"
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
    Options
    I guess I should rephrase my comment. The motor mounts are why the 4 spring couplings break. The one spring coupling will not, due to the sagging front mount. The mounts are an easy change out, but and old motor should just be replaced, or just use a forgiving coupling as in Spiralink style
  • Tinman
    Tinman Member Posts: 2,808
    Options
    I set up this old Series 100 in our shop just last week so my apprentice could practice servicing this pump in a controlled environment without pressure. Of course, it's a bit different on the job without valves but he's already been taught how to purge air. If you go to Bell & Gossett's website, click on documents, type Series 100 into the Search box, one of the files that populates is a great step by step instruction manual on how to do complete service on the 100 pumps.
    Steve Minnich
    SWEI
  • wcs5050
    wcs5050 Member Posts: 131
    Options
    Job was a liability besides pump. Recommended he try someone else.
  • Paul48
    Paul48 Member Posts: 4,469
    Options
    Stephen.....Try YouTube......Videos of series 100 rebuild.