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how do you power purge?
maybemark
Member Posts: 1,131
I find myself knowing so little, when someone tells me i have to do something, and i don' have a clue what that means.
But I am lucky to have the rest of you people that might have the answer. How do you power purge ones boiler system? Does it mean bleeding the air out?
But I am lucky to have the rest of you people that might have the answer. How do you power purge ones boiler system? Does it mean bleeding the air out?
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Comments
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Domestic water is forced through the system using line pressure -- see the other thread.0
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so i am basically flushing the system with a hose, but bi passing the boiler0
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that statement i said is not true, it will be going thru the boiler0
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Either will work.
Make sure you install drains on supply and return lines of both zones when you install the new boiler. http://www.webstonevalves.com/ is your friend.0 -
are you refering to the ball valves that have the hose connection comming out of the side?0
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Ball valves with hose bibb drains, union ball valves with hose bibb drains, and pump flanges with hose bibb drains.0
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I already purchase the pump flanges with the stops. I need something different?0
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I guess I purchased the wrong item, and your saying I need this instead
1" IPS Isolator Flange with Drain (Pair)0 -
why would i need a drain, on both sides of the pump?0
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since i already bought the other flanges, can't I just use boiler drains next to the flange. No i can not do this, because the boiler drain will be under pressure from the system. i guess I will just have to eat the flanges with the stops I bought and buy the other ones with the hose bib and stops0
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why can't i put a boiler valve on each side of each pump?0
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since I already have the flanges with the stops, can I just purchase this
1" Sweat Purge & Fill Ball Valve0 -
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it looks like the perfect solution, I just hate throwing money away, especially when i don't have the money0
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do you mean the purge and fill valve? the one not connected to the pump flange?0
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i saw it, but thanks0
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You need drains where you need them -- it really depends on both system design and layout. They (and several others) sell flanges with shutoffs (no drain) for a few dollars less.0
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Sometimes all it takes is one critically placed ball valve and purge cock, like this.
I like to use a ball valve with hose connection end as the purge valve. This gives a full flow purge and allows you to pump in chemicals or cleaners.
Tough to pump into a standard boiler drain as you usually pop the washer off the stem at high flows, they prefer one way traffic.
Also a more complex P/S piping I use to commonly installed. In this case one well placed ball/ purge valve could do the entire piping section, boiler, tank, by section.
Most all fill valves have a fast fill mechanism, shouldn't need to attach a hose if you have one.
At least one brand is an automatic fast fill, no levers to push with a 5.2 gpm flow rate @ 30 psi inlet pressure to the valve.Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
one thing at a time. I will not purchase anything, until i can get a piping layout. i already bought some wrong material. This is in the future, more important is for me to figure out a way to have Fred (my plumber) to get the cleaner in the system. how long should the cleaner be in the system? How much should i put in?
I bought 4 gallons, thinking it will take more than a gal for the system .From what i read, I should also clean out the new piping, from flux and anything else. But, again, i will have to have a piping plan, for this to work easy.
now I just have to concentrate on how to get the cleaner in the exising system, so i won't go thru the drain, there are several stops, Fred will take off a union and we will add a ball valve and hose connection.
I wish Fred had more knowelge on this, and i no nothing to help him learn. I appreciate anything i learn from you guys
thanks
Mark
if you can think of something, please let me know0 -
Third World method of Power Purging.
In a 100+ YO house on the ground in three sections where you can't crawl from one section to the other. And except for the "cellar" where the boiler and oil tank are, you still can't crawl.
All purging is done through the boiler drain above the ball valve above the circulator. By opening the fast fill on the 1156F.
It hasn't stopped since I installed it in 2007.
Every hot water system I have ever done is some form of this. It also works for blowing out hydronic systems that need to be winterized. All water in the system is blown out for winterization. I blow out the water heater first and use it as an air tank. I feed the air into the heating system through the 1156 PRV. I've never had a broken pipe, and when filling new and cold, I always know when the zone is purged because the hot water comes back to the return.
But that's the old country shade tree way.
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I have iron pipe and these square stops you need a wrench to close and ope thos valves. I think Fred with help from you guys, to tell us how to overcome this obsticle (power purge, then add cleaner)0
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Mark, no offense intended but you are WAY overthinking this boiler replacement. Your installer should know how to purge and install any chemical treatment that is needed. I think you will find that just flushing the system with clean water prior to the boiler replacement and treating the newly filled boiler will be fine. Use a dirt/mag/air separator when the install is done and you will be fine.
http://www.caleffi.com/usa/en-us/catalogue/discaldirtmagtm-air-and-dirt-separator-magnet-brass-546195a0 -
Rob
thank you for your thoughts
I already have purchased a dirt mag,
Mark0 -
Rob,
your probably right, i am over thinking my project. I just want to have knowledge, since my plumber is old school.
I just went ahead and ordered the book How Come, by Dan. I am hoping I will learn enough to make sure that Fred, my plumber does things proper
thanks everyone
Mark0
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