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Leaking WR Zone-A-Flow Water Valve

DIYChris
DIYChris Member Posts: 9
in Radiant Heating
One of my White-Rodgers Zone-A-Flow valves (Type 1361-103; 1") is leaking but only when the valve is traveling to the open or closed position. I am debating whether to just replace the valve assembly or to use a seal replacement kit. Though the second option is clearly the cheapest, I am looking for any thoughts or advice. For one, I am not clear whether I will need a special tool to install the "quad" ring, for example. I doubt the O-ring on the brass sleeve is the culprit but I could be wrong. Or perhaps there is something else I am missing or there are watchouts I should be aware of. Thanks in advance for your input.

Comments

  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265
    If the WR 1361-103 is a 3 wire zone valve that first came out in the 1960's, no nastier product was ever dumped upon the weary. I have a 3rd degree burn scar on my wrist from one. (My bad). They leak through a small O-Ring around the shaft as the O-Ring wears from the constant rotation over years. Then, the water evaporates and leaves a hard black residue where the O-Ring is supposed to seal. The water turns to steam vapor and fouls the open/close contacts on the plate.

    The best solution is to buy a whole new valve and take the entire valve and leave the old valve body. Replace the rest. Being sure to use a old piece of sand cloth to thoroughly clean the bore of the valve body. Use some silicone grease on the O-Rings before you put it back together. the "103" means (I think) 1" valve, 3 wire thermostat. If the thermostat is a White Rogers square thermostat, and there are three wires inside it that are connected, one set opens the valve. The other wire closes it.

    Or replace the whole valve. Which will require some serious consideration in wiring it. Easily integrating a 2 wire thermostat and valve into a 3-wire valve system van cause some serious head scratching.
  • DIYChris
    DIYChris Member Posts: 9
    Fortunately (I guess), this is a two-wire; does not see more than 110F so steam is not an issue. Ironically (failing memory), I found a seal replacement kit (F92-0228) I must have purchased a few years ago. I have an extra valve assembly: took it apart to get a sense of what I was getting into. I might need a spanner for the lock ring/quad ring...but looks to be doable, assuming I can pull the valve out of the valve body....
  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265
    Its not "steam", it is water vapor. The "vapor" condenses back to water and leaves a residue behind which wears the O-Ring. Which causes it to leak. It gets worse every time the valve completes a 180 degree cycle. If it IS a 2 wire valve, it depends on a warp switch to hold the valve and plate open. When the power goes away, a spring closes the valve. If the crud around the shaft and O-Ring resistance is greater than the pressure exerted by the spring, it won't close. The water vapor gets on the plate with the electrical contacts. Worse with 3 wire valves.

    I always took pride in being able to fix most anything but someone else's broken heart. I never fixed a WR valve that lasted more then 6 months. And customers weren't happy.

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