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turning an old gravity piping system into using a high effeciency boiler

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  • maybemark
    maybemark Member Posts: 1,131
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    tony
    I have improved my house alot, new windows, new entry doors, and blown in insulation in the attic. very few walls have insulation, the majority of the house is 2 layers of brick, one layer of clay time, and plater directly on the clay time. No place for insulation. Without figuring the unheated basement, i used the slant fin calculator and got a heat loss of 76000 btus
    I'm not sure if this is any help,

    Gordy, what was the radiators btu's? i forgot what you told me
  • Gordy
    Gordy Member Posts: 9,546
    edited December 2014
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    847 EDR. 127k

    You are using the 007 as of now with no issues in present set up.

    https://heatinghelp.com/systems-help-center/sizing-circulators-for-old-gravity-hot-water-systems/

    So tony what do you make of this formula. I know it's based on a CI boiler set up, it would appear the 007 is a match, and his present system confirms it..
  • maybemark
    maybemark Member Posts: 1,131
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    gordy
    the 007 seems to be working fine( it works, i imagine fine) I purchased 2- 15-58 ,do you think they will work fine on low spped for the new boiler?
    RJMCTAFO
  • maybemark
    maybemark Member Posts: 1,131
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    tony
    I just thought of something. i am having a DHW installed also. How will the single loop work, durring warm weather when my house is not calling for heat but I am taking a shower? This is a thought that just came in my head, and since i am not a proffestinal, maybe there is a simple solution i am missing
    thanks
    mark
  • TonyS
    TonyS Member Posts: 849
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    I would like to point out that I am assuming we are dealing with an untouched gravity system. When I was a young man working in my fathers shop we would reverse the returns on gravity systems that were to be pumped. Break and plug the return after the last rad before the boiler then go to the back of the mains and break the 90, install a t and run 1 inch copper back to the boiler. This made the system a two pipe reverse return which could then be pumped without worry of short cycling. Later on I would start placing radiator valves on the system and this would also set up a balance. The article Gordy points out is interesting. The boiler in the picture is an EG WEIL that has full port openings, I used quite a few of those when the people wanted the system to remain gravity, they also worked very well. About 5 years ago I was called to a job that the fire company had shut down because of smoke. The Sloan interburner in a vertical tube New Yorker had to be rebuilt, I rebuilt the burner and being somewhat fascinated with the burner I fired up the system and it was running fine. The customer running around the house checking the radiators for heat was elated. It was only then I looked down to find the coupling on the old B&G 100 was broke obviously for a long time. The system was running fine even though the boiler was never piped in to work on gravity. When I pointed out the broken pump to the owner and told him we need to fix that he ask why...I didnt have an answer. To this day it doesnt have a pump and the gravity works right through the pump housing. Many of the systems in our city had the boiler toward the front of the house where the coal was dumped. These systems showed the balancing problems quickly because of the distance to the rear radiator. We either reversed the returns or reinstalled gravity. Try running your system without a pump(if someone installed a flow valve be sure to open it up.) See what happens.
  • maybemark
    maybemark Member Posts: 1,131
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    tony
    sorry i didn't mention earlier that it was converted years ago
  • JohnNY
    JohnNY Member Posts: 3,231
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    I usually don't bother with threads with more than a dozen or so replies unless it's something in which I find particular interest.
    I also have about a 50-word attention span/tolerance for any one post.
    Therefore, I've not read about 80% of the posts in this thread.

    That said, I believe my old I=B=R training still holds true:
    "For best results, convert your gravity system to constant circulation. Balance radiators with manual or self-regulating valves or orifice plates if needed."
    Contact John "JohnNY" Cataneo, NYC Master Plumber, Lic 1784
    Consulting & Troubleshooting
    Heating in NYC or NJ.
    Classes
    GordyRobGj a_2maybemark
  • Gordy
    Gordy Member Posts: 9,546
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    Mark!
    I think you need to pick an option your installer fully understands. Constant circulation does wonders in masking system imbalances. Gravity systems were variable constant circulation systems.
    maybemark
  • maybemark
    maybemark Member Posts: 1,131
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    Gordy
    I appreciate tyour input. there is a time, that all of us can learn new things. Fed is old school, but a very smart man. yes, he ahs only installed a handful of HE boilers, that does no mean he can't do it the best possible way, instead of a way you feel he understands. Please don't get me wrong ,i appreciate you looking out for me and my system. But, I am looking for what's best for my boiler as far as effeciency, problem free and longivity. I feel him reading the manual, the help of you people that want to help, and tech support. i can get this boiler in problem free, the way it's meant to be installed
    mark