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How can I rework this for a proper vent?
HarryL
Member Posts: 60
The attached photos show the vent at the end of my main. The main is about 40 feet of 2" pipe. I don't know the history but from the looks of it, this was some rework when another radiator was added. Maybe there wasn't even a vent here at first but someone attempted to add one. Overcoming the rusted bushings and elbow looks like the first major problem. Even if I manage to overcome that, the geometry to get at least a Gorton #1, but ideally a #2 in here, is a real head scratcher. There is also a Vent-Rite #35 at the end of the return near the boiler. It looks newer and as though it was done when the boiler was replaced because the installer didn't want to mess around with the craziness in the picture. Any suggestions about how to tackle this are appreciated.
Home owner, 1927 2-story, single family
1 pipe Burnham IN4I, Boston area
1 pipe Burnham IN4I, Boston area
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Comments
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Funny thing. After writing this I had an aha moment - I think. Aside from overcoming the rust, I should be able to turn the existing or a new replacement 45 elbow turned 180 degrees from the current position and run a short piece of pipe with one or more tees for my Gorton #2, or multiple #1 if there isn't enough clearance. Does that make sense?Home owner, 1927 2-story, single family
1 pipe Burnham IN4I, Boston area0 -
What size pipe is connected directly to the vent? It's kind of hard to tell, but I am guessing it's 1/2"? If it was me I would remove the vent and all the 1/2"? piping and then take out that very last bushing. With proper care and leverage you would be surprised what will actually come apart. I am guessing then you will have either 3/4" or 1" available at that point. Once you have it there you can construct a vent antler to mount your vents too. Start with a 90° elbow and elbow over to a more convenient location which helps you install AND gets things back away from the end of main a bit. With 40' of 2" pipe you want at least 2 Gorton #2 vents one for every 20' of pipe. If you are thinking you need to get into that larger 45° elbow from where I am sitting I don't think you need to. It isn't the most ideal spot, but it can be made to work.0
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40 ft of two inch main may need 2ea Gorton #2's or 6ea Gorton #1's. The cost is about the same except for some extra nipples and T's if you use the #1's. When you build the antler make sure it has a bit of slope so water can find it's way back to the main.
BobSmith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
3PSI gauge5 -
Thanks for the previous suggestions. After looking at the space available I think I need to approach this a bit differently. The attached image is a crude attempt to describe what am thinking about doing. 1) reuse or replace the 1-1/2" 45 elbow and rotate it so that it is extending 90 degrees from the direction of the main (open directly towards the camera). Then add a nipple and 90 elbow (or a 90 MPT/FPT) to aim the antler to the right. I'll put a union in the section before the tee with the first Gorton #2.Home owner, 1927 2-story, single family
1 pipe Burnham IN4I, Boston area0 -
I would do it exactly like that, but I wouldn't rotate the 45° elbow at all. It appears in the picture you have enough room to get over there without rotating it. Keep in mind as the fittings get bigger the ability to move them after all these years diminishes dramatically. Also keeping it pointed up gives you some extra height. You want those vents as high as you can get away with. Height is your friend! It looks like you are pretty much on track though.5
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That would work fine, get the vents as high up as you can.
BobSmith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
3PSI gauge0 -
The existing vent at the end of the vent is sitting on only 1/4" so I need to get it and at least the first bushing for my new Gortons.(Right? I need more the 1/4" for two Gorton #2s?) I tried turning the bushing but so far no-go. Either enough force or some degree of cutting will get if off.
There is a 1/2" tee at the end of the dry return with a Vent-Rite 35. It must have been installed when the last boiler was installed. I know venting that extra run of the dry return doesn't really buy me anything, but I know I can put two Gorton #2s there easily for now and either reposition later at the end of the main myself, or pay a pro to do it. Do you see any problems with placing it there for now? I need to get rid of the vent on the 1/4" and cap it off, as it hisses AFTER getting hot!Home owner, 1927 2-story, single family
1 pipe Burnham IN4I, Boston area0 -
The new Gortons are in! For now, they unfortunately are near the boiler end of the dry run, but I have to do some more work on the bushings at the end of the main to connect 1/2". I suspect they have been in place for 30-40 years at least.Home owner, 1927 2-story, single family
1 pipe Burnham IN4I, Boston area0 -
Well done! Let us know if they make a big difference as I suspect they will!0
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Yes! The radiators are heating much more evenly now. Two on the second floor that are fed by this same main are a little slow. I need to go back and check their valves. But otherwise it seems to be helping a lot.
This weekend, I am installing a low pressure gauge to confirm whether the stock pressurtrol or the stock 0-30 psi gauge is broken. When making steam, the gauge goes to between 5&6, and the wheel inside the pressurtrol is set to 1, with cut-in set to 1/2. I expect to find out that the pressurtrol is broken.Home owner, 1927 2-story, single family
1 pipe Burnham IN4I, Boston area0 -
Or your gauge is bad, you will find out once you get a better gauge installed.0
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