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trying to starting my weil mclain for first time this year.

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yankeepa
yankeepa Member Posts: 12
in Oil Heating
circulator pumps run, and i get an amber light for about 10 seconds, will not even try to fire. could someone please point me in a good place to start trouble shooting this bad boy. Thank you in advance.

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  • Docfletcher
    Docfletcher Member Posts: 487
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    Which Weil do you have? Model and series please.
  • yankeepa
    yankeepa Member Posts: 12
    edited November 2014
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    GOLD Model P-WTGO-3 Series # 3
  • yankeepa
    yankeepa Member Posts: 12
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    Any Input would be awesome.
  • Docfletcher
    Docfletcher Member Posts: 487
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    I'm sure someone will be along with experience with that particular model.

    How old is it and which burner does it use?
  • Docfletcher
    Docfletcher Member Posts: 487
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    If burner does not fire, check for:
    Service switch on boiler or additional
    switches turned off.
    Fuses or breaker switch tripped.
    Thermostat set below room temperature.
    Fuel valves turned off.
    Not enough oil in tank to supply burner.
  • yankeepa
    yankeepa Member Posts: 12
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    Beckett AFG GO-3 Thank you I think I tried all the easy stuff i think its meter time. Thank you DOC for your help.
  • Docfletcher
    Docfletcher Member Posts: 487
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    OK, one of the pros will be by. I think they have the info to get things going. :)
  • Marz
    Marz Member Posts: 90
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    Is TT jumped out? Is there power on B1 coming from the aquastat? Is there a call from the end switch to the aquastat?
  • Marz
    Marz Member Posts: 90
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    The 1st amber light that comes on when the control is powered is a self check, the 2nd amber light is when the control notices a call for heat.when the 2nd light goes out the burner should start.
  • yankeepa
    yankeepa Member Posts: 12
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    Thanks mars for the great info. All i am getting is the self check light. No other defalts nor any attempt the start. TT is jumped aquastat seams to be working fine but i am going to check voltages here in a few. Again thank you for your time if u have any tricks you can share i would greatly appreciate it.
  • yankeepa
    yankeepa Member Posts: 12
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    I checked every wire and conection all good got 120 volts from B1 this is driving me up the wall. Still could use some help please.
  • Marz
    Marz Member Posts: 90
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    If you have 120v on the B1 terminal and TT is jumped on the primary, I would say more than likely 602002s may be bad. You can also check the ohms on the FF wires to see if the cad cell is seeing light.
  • yankeepa
    yankeepa Member Posts: 12
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    Thanks again marz going to swap that out today ill keep ya posted.
  • Kakashi
    Kakashi Member Posts: 88
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    Go for the Honeywell 7284u or the Beckett GeniSys. If you have power at the black wire on the burner, when F and F is disconnected you should have power to the orange wire unless it's on lockout.
    It could be a whole new story if it's on lockout.
  • yankeepa
    yankeepa Member Posts: 12
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    I do not think its in lockout all i get is the 1st amber and thats it power seams to be right there thus far i will check those voltages as you suggested thank you. Would you take a guess that the primary is bad.
  • Kakashi
    Kakashi Member Posts: 88
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    Bad cad cell eye, bad cad cell wires, bad aqua-stat, bad primary, bad molex plug. The list could go on...
  • yankeepa
    yankeepa Member Posts: 12
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    Where would you start kakashi? Thank you for your time.
  • Kakashi
    Kakashi Member Posts: 88
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    With a dummy buzz tester then a pair of jumpers and then with a multimeter. In that order for me.
    If you start with a multimeter you will get the right answer right away.
    Have you taken any readings yet?
  • yankeepa
    yankeepa Member Posts: 12
    edited November 2014
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    I have I ohmd out fine and power not an issue. Anywhere as of yet. I do have a known good 4009 would have tried it already if not for my beckett uses the violet wire, just to test. Not sure if i am willing to risk more damage. Although seems pretty strait forward. Opinion please. Thank you
  • Kakashi
    Kakashi Member Posts: 88
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    A lot of the guys I work with still "eye" a fire. Without numbers to back your findings it means nothing. How many ohms does a cad cell read without a fire? 400 to 800 ohms with a fire is what I aim for.
    How many volts do you get on the black wire going from aqua-stat that passes through the switch and down to the burner?

    Then again, a lot of the older guys have a motto..."when in doubt, jump it out"
    That could help you but, I won't tell you how to do that, sorry...it's easy to do if you know what you're doing but, you could also burn your house down.
  • yankeepa
    yankeepa Member Posts: 12
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    I thank you for your help and advise. You have know idea of my background in electronics though i have been working for the DOD as a electronics technician for over 15 years, so before you call someone an "O" fire guy please get the entire story first. Thanks again. For your help,
  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265
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    I was about to help you out, but I see that you are smart and I don't think I am as smart as you.

    You figure it out, or get someone else to do it for you.
    yankeepa
  • Kakashi
    Kakashi Member Posts: 88
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    You are right but, it doesn't take much time to tell us what you got with your readings so we could at least point you in the right direction.
    At any rate, you should be able to jump out a simple circuit with your background.

    Sorry, I have walked into too many home owner nightmares...the violet/purple wire is generally for a delayed oil valve/clean cut pump. I can safely assume that it has nothing to do with your problem.
    yankeepa
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
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    Sounds like your control is in latch-up. Did you reset it once already? I will also say that you may have a background in electronics, but there is so much more involved here. That model Weil is a "T". What is your hot water source, as the "T" means that it is a tankless coil boiler?
    yankeepa
  • yankeepa
    yankeepa Member Posts: 12
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    I would like to apologize for my comment last night. I was getting stressed out especially to kakashi you are a 100 percent spot on. This unit. Is not for part changers. Thank you guys for all your guidance and input my wife pulled me off it last night needed a break. Will update you guys later.
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
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    I hope you called someone in. It is getting rather cool out to wait any longer
  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265
    edited November 2014
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    The violet wire is for the delayed, instant on oil valve. The red with white tracer is power to the control at all times. It provides power to the control. The black wire is coming from B-1 from the temperature controller. When the power switch comes on, on the front of the burner, the yellow light will come on as you describe. In the side of the control are two terminals, "T-T". Put a jumper across there and the yellow/amber light should come on, go off and the burner should start. . If it dies or doesn't, you really need someone that understands what they are doing. There is a wiring diagram in the instruction manual. You should be able to figure out how it works. If you can't, you need to call a professional.

    Don't be stubborn guy. Listen to your wife. Ask for help. Your manhood will not suffer.

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