Hydronic Separators

Jeff W_2

Can anyone tell me if using a Caleffi 548 (not the 3-in-1) hydronic separator eliminates the need for the Spirovent on the system?

hot_rod

Air removal work best if you can, slow down the fluid , grab it at the warmest point in the system, and keep sufficient pressure to keep the bubbles small.

Adding a collision media, or coalescing media enhances the ability to remove air quickly, even the smallest micro bubbles.

The 548 has a perforated media in the flow path to enhance the air separation, and should be sufficient for most hydronic air removal conditions. Much better that a plain scoop type air removal that depends on just that low velocity zone for air separation and removal.

High point vents are always a good additional protection, catching air that rises to the piping during off season.

In the 549 Sep 4 you get increased media surface, additional dirt separation media, and magnetic separation, added to hydraulic separation.

Well planned purge valves with the ability to isolate and purge large systems in small sections is a big plus also. As long as you assure flow throughout the system and back to the central air removal device they all work fine.

Assuming you don't present any conditions that could allow air ingress.

Rich_49

Damn near the only source of air elimination I use for awhile now . I do advise spending the couple extra dollars for the SEP4 though . Lotsa benefit for a few bucks .

Jeff W_2

Thanks Hot Rod and Rich- great advice as always.

Jeff W_2

Also- how are people tying in the water feed and expansion tank with the Caleffi separator? On the boiler side or system side? Both are technically pumping away, right?

Rich_49

There is no Technically pumping away . You're either pumping away or you're not . Placement of the circulator will determine if you are pumping away . You can only be pumping away if you are pumping away from the expansion tank .

hot_rod

Google and download idronics 15. We show several options at the sep or on the return headers

Jeff W_2

Ha Rich- good one. I guess I worded it wrong. My question should have been- if the system circs are pumping away from the P/S header, does it matter that the water feed/expansion tank setup be installed on the boiler side of the P/S header.

Hot Rod- read it...I will review again right now.

JohnNY

I use hydronic, or hydraulic, separators plenty and when I do, it's all the air separation I could ask for.

icesailor

Again I have to ask?

Where does all this air come from? In all the years I have done Hydronics, installs and service, I never EVER saw all the air you seem to have in your systems. Even my new ones that were done with all the toots and whistles. Once I purged completely, I never went back for an air bound issue. So where does it come from? Are you creating it with turbulence and cavitation?

I never installed a #15 Extrol in my life. If one went bad, I replaced it with a #30. If it was a radiator system, I used a #60, Even if it was a warm start. And every cold start. If it had pressure fluctuations when heating up and was a cold start, it had a #60. If I had or installed a Micro Bubble scrubber, I put a float vent on it. After purging, ALL caps were tight. Where is all this air coming from? I can't be the only one that never had air issues. Is this something created by the latest attempt to re-invent the hydronic heating system?

If I could purge it (and I found few that I couldn't find a way to purge), and it was flowing hot continuously, that was the end of it. Any system that had air, didn't have enough pressure for the height of the system, had a improperly adjusted PRV/Fill valve or a broken one.

And before someone gets a twist about putting a float vent on a Spirovent, I only drained systems with compressed air. You can't put compressed air into a system with a Spirovent unless you cap the 1/2" vent. So, U put a IPS coupling, nipple and 1/2"X 1/8" Red IPS ell with a #400 float vent. So I could blow ALL the water out of the system. Why air? The latest rage is series looped heat with no drains on drops between emitters. Buried in finished ceilings. How do you winterize and drain out the water? You PURGE it out with compressed air. A pipe that is not full of water may freeze but it won't break because the ice has a place to expand to. The compressed air will even evacuate water from low points with dedicated drains.

Gordy

Ice you do know a hydraulic seperator performs much more than air removal?