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this is a big issue or not?
heatingFun
Member Posts: 84
I am adding zones and found there are lots of rust on one of the connections with air scoop. The system is 5 yrs old.
This is the connection issue or the air scoop issue?
I didn't see any wet. I may happened years ago?
What I should do? leave it as is? reconnect it? replace the air scoop?
I am now working on that area. It will be a good opportunity to do something on it if it is necessary.
Please have a look at the pictures.
thanks
This is the connection issue or the air scoop issue?
I didn't see any wet. I may happened years ago?
What I should do? leave it as is? reconnect it? replace the air scoop?
I am now working on that area. It will be a good opportunity to do something on it if it is necessary.
Please have a look at the pictures.
thanks
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Comments
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Really.Paul48 said:I would say it is dissimilar metal corrosion. I would replace it with a spirovent myself. They are brass, and there are no restrictions on placement.
I would call it a P Poor pipe doping and tightening of an adapter. That Teflon Tape and Past would have never allowed to happen.
Have you ever seen the inside of one of those deep underground caves with the Stalactites hanging down from the ceilings? Caused by a drop of water with a deposit of hardness/limestone and the water dripping off the point and leaving the calcium behind? The same thing happens when minute amounts of water travel through the threads, come out into the atmosphere, and the water evaporates. Leaving the water hardness behind. The bigger the leak, the more white stuff. Far more prone on the supply side/hot side of boilers where the water evaporates faster from the heat, Seen far less on the cooler returns.1 -
It will get worse or it will stay like this from your experience?0
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Based on what ice has said.....If it's not leaking, you should be fine.0
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is it an issue? Not if it's not leaking any more.....a big issue......no.0
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I would change it out for a micro bubble seperator, or at the least redo the fitting. That stuff bugs me.0
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Thats what happens when you make the thread connection before the solder connection. The heat screws up the dope.
Any pipe dope knows you solder first let it cool and then dope and make the thread connection.There was an error rendering this rich post.
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"" Thats what happens when you make the thread connection before the solder connection. The heat screws up the dope.
Any pipe dope knows you solder first let it cool and then dope and make the thread connection. ""
I almost always soldered adapters after I made them in to a female fitting. I always used Teflon Tape and Paste. If I had a leak (which was very seldom), it was because I didn't tighten it enough. If you're using 50/50 solder, it melts at 360 degrees. If you're using a huge 1200+ degree flamethrower torch, it is easy to overheat the fitting. You only need to get it hot enough for the solder to flow. Teflon Tape is rated for up to 500 degrees +/-.
The adapter threads are leaking. Not the air scoop. When I found a leaking Micro-Bubble eliminator leaking water, I screwed a coupling, nipple and reducing ell and a float vent with the cap tight.
Just like I did with scoops. They never became air bound. Why's That?0 -
Should definitley look into getting a spirovent. Below is a link with some info that should help out.
http://www.spirotherm.com/products/air-elimination0
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