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Flow Check Valve Location.

DocfletcherDocfletcher Member Posts: 475
edited October 2014 in Plumbing
The HTP indirect water heater installation instructions show the flow check valve mounted before the circulator in the coil loop hot side. I think I read here or possibly elsewhere that it belongs in front of the circulator. I have everything dry fitted and ready to go. So I want to be sure not to screw the check vale location up. Which is correct guys?
Thanks Doc.

Comments

  • SWEISWEI Member Posts: 7,356
    Generally better to put any restrictions (check valves included) on the pressure side of the circ.
  • DocfletcherDocfletcher Member Posts: 475
    Thanks for the quick reply. I will place BFP on the output side of the circulator.
  • j a_2j a_2 Member Posts: 1,796
    what model #? Are you referring to the swing check or flow check? I think HTP wants I F E circulators. Copy and post diagram..So many different manuf. and model #s these days.
  • DocfletcherDocfletcher Member Posts: 475
    HTP SSC35 Superstor Contender. Watts 2000 flow check valve.

    http://screencast.com/t/PUvfGXF0u3rj
  • j a_2j a_2 Member Posts: 1,796
    Can you tell me what your connecting it to and where you see the flow check
  • DocfletcherDocfletcher Member Posts: 475
    Currently it's a Bock CT30, indirect water heater. It is connected to a WeilMclain GV4 series 2 natural gas water boiler. In the indirect coil on the RETURN side is a Grundfos UP 15-42fr and the Watts BFP 2000 is siting right on top of the circulator. It's blue on the left in Photo...

    http://screencast.com/t/AhmznjCGoVn0

    I will be turning the circulator 90 degrees and moving it to the hot side so it's flow will be as shown as in the diagram...

    http://screencast.com/t/PUvfGXF0u3rj

    So then, I can either place the BFP in front of or behind the circulator.

    Thanks for your help.



  • icesailoricesailor Member Posts: 7,265
    Any possibility that that black plastic exhaust vent pipe and fitting is the recalled Plex Vent or Ultra Vent? It looks like it.
  • DocfletcherDocfletcher Member Posts: 475
    Yeah, there is a voluntary recall on that. Apparently many of them cracked from heat and age. I took it out last year, took it apart , inspected and reassembled. You get rebate on your replacement cost for the SS version. I'll see about getting it replaced when the Bock is out of the way. Should be easier working in the area then.

    I found out they won't rebate me back the cost unless I have pro do it. So I don't know if I'll have it done or not. Your the 2nd guy to notice it and make mention of it. :)
  • j a_2j a_2 Member Posts: 1,796
    Wow From the pic I see there is no way that was installed by an experienced installer…I suggest you get a hold of one…Sorry just my thinking...
  • DocfletcherDocfletcher Member Posts: 475
    Are you talking about the high temp black plastic pipe?

    I'm more concerned about the circ and flow check. :)


  • j a_2j a_2 Member Posts: 1,796
    I am talking about the workmanship I see in the pic. Looks like a moonlighter did the work…Sorry, again just being honest...
  • DocfletcherDocfletcher Member Posts: 475
    Nothing to be sorry about.
    Yeah, it was a self install with a friend 20 years ago. Conversion from hot air to hot water baseboard. I'm not a pro & not pretending to be one. It's been a great system, even if it ain't so pretty.

    So can you share your thoughts on the BFP or are you going to keep me in suspense? :)
  • RobGRobG Member Posts: 1,850
    edited October 2014
    Congrats for moving from forced air! If it's worked for 20 years you must have done something right. Are you talking about a flow check or a back flow preventer?

    And JA, this is heating help, not heating criticism. When in doubt, refer to rule #1.

    Rob
  • j a_2j a_2 Member Posts: 1,796
    No, not at all, give me till tomorrow to look at it…..Getting ready for the Pats game..Hopefully not the end of an era...
  • hot_rodhot_rod Member Posts: 13,882
    downstream of the circ is best. Use a properly sized hydronic type check. I prefer the low 1/2 psi "pop" spring check with a tapered cone and soft seat. They look a lot like the check you see in the circs these days.

    If you over size a check, like a swing check, they can rattle, as they need full flow to hold them completely open. Stay away from swing and flat disc style checks in hydronic systems.
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    The magic is in hydronics, and hydronics is in me
    Docfletcher
  • DocfletcherDocfletcher Member Posts: 475
    UT OH! The Watts flow check valve that's in there now is a RATTLER. Been rattling since day one. It is 3/4" model 2000. Because I was going from 3/4 to 1" I just bought the same kind in the 1" version. Upon looking at it I see it is a flat disc type. So I won't be using that one :( . I'll go to my local plumbing supply 1st A.M. and get the type you say. Thanks for that tip hot rod.

    I'd like to swap out the Bock tomorrow. Don't wanna wait. (Coil Leak)

  • DocfletcherDocfletcher Member Posts: 475
    Rob , Back flow preventer.
  • hot_rodhot_rod Member Posts: 13,882

    UT OH! The Watts flow check valve that's in there now is a RATTLER. Been rattling since day one. It is 3/4" model 2000. Because I was going from 3/4 to 1" I just bought the same kind in the 1" version. Upon looking at it I see it is a flat disc type. So I won't be using that one :( . I'll go to my local plumbing supply 1st A.M. and get the type you say. Thanks for that tip hot rod.

    I'd like to swap out the Bock tomorrow. Don't wanna wait. (Coil Leak)

    Yeah, size a hydronic check to the flow rate, not pipe size. I like the Conbraco brand. Low "pop" and what is called a "bubble free" stop.

    Swing, flapper and disc style checks are not "bubble free" shut off typically, so mother nature, with a temperature delta to work with can cause some ghost flow in those style checks.

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    The magic is in hydronics, and hydronics is in me
    Docfletcher
  • DocfletcherDocfletcher Member Posts: 475
    61-105-01 Is the closest match to my current flow rate (5.9) and my will be flow rate (8) Thanks all you guys for your help.
  • icesailoricesailor Member Posts: 7,265

    Are you talking about the high temp black plastic pipe?

    I'm more concerned about the circ and flow check. :)


    The circulator and flow check won't ever kill you.

    That vent pipe can kill you. You've not seen the broken ones that I have.

  • DocfletcherDocfletcher Member Posts: 475
    edited October 2014
    I finished indirect install tonight. I do plan to address the high temp plastic pipe issue near term. It's my understanding the issue with them is cracking/chipping/splits at the joints and leaks from improper or poorly applied high temp sealant. For now however suffice it to say none of those are problems with mine. It is in fine shape. I guess that's why I been dragging my feet on getting it done.:) So the indirect is in, and there's no more rattle thanks to Rob's tip regarding a ball cone check valve. All is quiet in the garage.
    I want to thank all you guys for taking the time to help me out with this whole indirect heater thing. This is a fine forum.
  • RobGRobG Member Posts: 1,850
    I think you meant Hot Rod's tip.
  • DocfletcherDocfletcher Member Posts: 475
    Yes I did mean Hot rod's tip. Thanks for the heads up on that.
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