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Chicago steam boiler professional request!
jch1
Member Posts: 200
Hey all,
I need to replace my steam boiler. I'm located in a western suburb of Chicago. Looking to find any reliable, responsive people that can help me out. Thanks in advance!
I need to replace my steam boiler. I'm located in a western suburb of Chicago. Looking to find any reliable, responsive people that can help me out. Thanks in advance!
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Comments
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I would recommend Boilerpro-now known as the steam whisperer. He can be found using the search here for his name.
In the meantime, perhaps you can describe your system problems and we can all advise what to do next.
You may have:
A leaking boiler.
Noisy system.
Uneven heat in the house.
High fuel bills.
Etc.--NBC0 -
Sorry for not providing much detail. We just purchased the house in may, and we noticed shortly thereafter that a pipe was leaking that's positioned above the Hartford loop and has a spout on it. Upon further investigation and after 6 or 7 experts came out, we determined the boiler has a crack in one of the cast iron sections and needs to be replaced. We have had some people come out who didn't even determine the surface area of steam, some who never provided us with quotes, and some who appear to be good servicemen, but I still have some concerns. For one, I measured 349 square feet of steam myself, which only one company came near (their calculation was 352). However, they suggested exhausting out of the side of the house, and suggested a Burnham unit capable of doing so. For several reasons, I'd rather not consider that the best option.
Another company who said they would install any brand that I want has a good price, and they seem very knowledgeable, but they suggested a boiler that's at least two boilers up in size than what I calculated. Granted, my pipes in the basement are not insulated so they can provide heat to the finished part, but going to a boiler that's rated for 500+ square feet of steam seems very excessive. I may try to have them install a smaller boiler.
I have contacted the steam whisperer several times attempting to get him to look at my system, and while I certainly appreciate him taking the time to speak with me over the phone, it appears that his schedule is precluding him from. I actually coming out to check it out. Which leaves me where I am now. I am not sure if I should wait until who knows when, or just work with one of the two I previously mentioned.0 -
It sounds like you are on the right track, although you will be dealing with installers of unknown quality. Is this a one-pipe system, or two?
Doublecheck the radiation edr calculations and select the boiler by that value of square feet of radiation, as you have done.
Make sure the piping diagrams in the installation manual are followed at a minimum, or use a drop header, for ease of fitting, fed by the two risers from the boiler. If the installer wants to deviate, by saying he has always installed his boilers that way, then show him the door. These piping arrangements have been thoroughly tested, and must be followed.
Locate the main vents, and increase their capacity, using Gorton 2 vents.
Insulate the supply piping all the way to those vents.
The waterline of the new boiler must not be higher than 24 inches below the ends of the dry returns, especially if you do not use a Vaporstat, verified by a 0-3 psi gauge: (Low pressures will ensure that you do not hear your radiator vents hissing as steam is being made).
I thought we had a sample contract here which spelled out some of these principles, but cannot find it. Good luck, and send some pictures of the current piping.--NBC
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I forgot to mention the cleaning (skimming) of the boiler. Have the installer show you how to do that essential final operation, which takes so many hours.--NBC0
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Having lived through a similar situation, I would be inclined to wait for a proven person. Steamhead is busy for a reason. It's amazing how wrong installers can get it, when it's all there in the installation manual. Just take a look at the thousands of posts dealing with poor installs.
Also, go by your edr. Keeping your basement pipes uninsulated may help keep the basement warm, but it's not doing anything for the rest of your house or your fuel bills. Better to insulate those pipes and investigate installing a hotwater loop to heat the basement using the residual heat of the @30% pick-up factor. Good luck! ColleenTwo-pipe Trane vaporvacuum system; 1466 edr
Twinned, staged Slantfin TR50s piped into 4" header with Riello G400 burners; 240K lead, 200K lag Btus. Controlled by Taco Relay and Honeywell RTH6580WF1 -
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