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What is the solution?

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NY_Hammer
NY_Hammer Member Posts: 65
in Strictly Steam
I need to put an air vent on one of my mains.

As you can see from the pictures there is an old plug.

It can't be removed, we tried multiple times, due to the age of the system and to the fact there is very little space to work.

Also no pipes can be cut/removed/replaced etc due to the same space constraints.



Somebody told me it's possible to drill a hole in horizontal nipple at about 45 degree angle, make a treat inside and put some bushing.

So the air  vent , probably Gorton #1 or 2 could be fit into that bushing later.





Is it even possible to do these steps and will the vent work at this angel or what would be other solution for this main under venting?





Thanks

 

Comments

  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 15,673
    edited August 2014
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    Pipe

    Where does the takeoff on the far right go and is there anyway you could use that? If there is a fitting in that pipe up above you could drill and tap for 1/2" that would be perfect in my opinion.



    Another option would be to vent the return if possible.
    Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment
  • JStar
    JStar Member Posts: 2,752
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    Vent

    Is the pipe drop exposed as it goes down the wall? It's often easier to install a new vent there.
  • nicholas bonham-carter
    nicholas bonham-carter Member Posts: 8,576
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    Main vent placement

    That looks like the boiler header, which is not the right place to put a main vent. Examine the returns, and put the vents on the end about 12 inches in front of the drop. The vent needs to allow the air to escape from all the supply piping, and the return is benefitted by air removal as well.--NBC
  • Hap_Hazzard
    Hap_Hazzard Member Posts: 2,846
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    Heat should be applied to the tee, not the plug.

    You want to make the outer component expand. Spaying penetrant on pipe joints it usually pointless because the threads are sealed, and spraying it on a hot surface is counterproductive.
    Just another DIYer | King of Prussia, PA
    1983(?) Peerless G-561-W-S | 3" drop header, CG400-1090, VXT-24
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 16,835
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    Not the header

    looks to me like this is a steam main above a dropped ceiling. We generally drill and tap the side of the last tee for 1/2" pipe thread, holding the drill and the tap at a slight pitch so they slope down towards the tee, and use a short nipple and an elbow to mount the vent. This way the pipe to the vent does not collect water and bang.
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
  • NY_Hammer
    NY_Hammer Member Posts: 65
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    Nope

    no it's not
  • NY_Hammer
    NY_Hammer Member Posts: 65
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    Nope

    It's not a boiler header. It's the shorter main.

    I have boiler located almost in the middle of the house.

    There are two mains, one goes to the from of the house, is about 2/3 of the house length and has a vent at the end.

    The other one goes to the back and apparently used to have a vent but now has that plug. THis is what you see on those pictures.

    horizontal main, 3 vertical takeoffs to the radiators and return vertical pipe connected to the last Tee opposite the plug.
  • RobG
    RobG Member Posts: 1,850
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    Dumb Question

    Have you checked to make sure that is a plug and not a bushing that someone removed a vent from and never put back? (felt for a hole on top). I have seen much stranger things.



    Rob 
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 15,673
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    Tee

    If the last take off isn't exposed anywhere convenient what about drilling and tapping the side of the tee for it?



    Keep it up as high as you can without risking drilling into the pipe threading and then you can vent from there.
    Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment
  • NY_Hammer
    NY_Hammer Member Posts: 65
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    Ha ha

    There is no hole ...

    Unfortunately ...

     
  • NY_Hammer
    NY_Hammer Member Posts: 65
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    I am not a pro

    I am in Brooklyn, would you do this job?
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 15,673
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    Nope

    I'm not a pro either. I've done similar work to my own system though.



    I'd recommend calling Jstar as I think he services Brooklyn.
    Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment
  • RobG
    RobG Member Posts: 1,850
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    Agree

    I agree with Chris, call JStar, he can also check out the rest of your system for any deficiencies that can be corrected which may save you some$$$



    JMHO,



    Rob
  • NY_Hammer
    NY_Hammer Member Posts: 65
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    OK I will

    on unrelated question, where from you got the boiler header insulation I saw on one of you pictures?



    I need to replace some of mine and have no idea where to look for the best prices and quality.
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 15,673
    edited August 2014
    Options
    Insulation

    I bought all of my pipe insulation and covers from this website.

    http://buyinsulationproducts.com/



    I still have some I need to do, though I've got most of it done.



    Try to buy everything you need at once because shipping cost is a killer.





    EDIT: Wanted to add 1" thick is by far the best bang for the buck. If I had it to do over I would go with 2" in some areas like my crawl space where it gets really cold but I'd still do the majority in 1".
    Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment
  • Hap_Hazzard
    Hap_Hazzard Member Posts: 2,846
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    That's not correct.

    The tee will expand as a function of its circumference. The opening will get bigger.



    Putting penetrant on hot metal just creates a bad smell and leaves a petroleum residue.



    But what do I know. Go ahead and try it.
    Just another DIYer | King of Prussia, PA
    1983(?) Peerless G-561-W-S | 3" drop header, CG400-1090, VXT-24
  • NY_Hammer
    NY_Hammer Member Posts: 65
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    I haven't done anything on the subject yet, just wanted to add a few new pictures. Anybody thinks it possible to get this plug out?
    Or I do need to drill another hole make a tread and put a bushing to install Gorton #1 there?
  • Abracadabra
    Abracadabra Member Posts: 1,948
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    bc3510, you are incorrect. Heat should be applied to the tee as HH said. You are heating a "circle" in effect. The circle heats and it's material expands. There is no way for the material in the circle to "reduce" the diameter.... it will simply expand outwards. I have also had good luck heating the tee and then applying freeze spray to the plug. Apply enough till you hear a snap/crackle/pop ;-)
  • Abracadabra
    Abracadabra Member Posts: 1,948
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    Oh.. also.. NY_Hammer be careful working around that insulation. It's asbestos. If you don't apply heat, I doubt you are getting that plug out.
  • j a_2
    j a_2 Member Posts: 1,801
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    does not look like a user friend area for a oxy/acetylene set up,fires are bad….I agree drill the hole and thread it, pretty simple…If you do get in trouble with tap and drill , you can repair it with a heli coil set up….Used them on radiator repairs a few times over the years..SAVED ME……Good luck

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