HW Radiant conversion

steamfitter

Copied from the main wall:

(I did a rough heat loss calculation with an app from Slantfin and found the boiler to be within range, but I have to confirm a lot of the figures I used. What is the outside design temp.in this area?)

He may want to do some work to get by this heating season and then possibly redo the system next year. I recommended going with a mod-con boiler and primary-secondary piping. Thoughts?





HW Radiant conversion

I am helping a friend, who lives in Jackson, N.J. with his home hw

heating system. He has many issues with a radiant hw system that was

originally a two-pipe direct return baseboard heating system. He may be

interested in complete replacement of the boiler and all near boiler

piping. Is there a reputable contractor in the Jackson, N.J. area that

may be recommended for estimate?







I have recommended some changes in the boiler piping and am looking into

doing a heat loss calculation. I have some info on the house, and I

know I need more, but I wanted to get a rough idea on the boiler size

because it seems small for the home.







The house has two heated levels and an unheated basement. The first

floor is approx. 1600 sq. ft. and is completely radiant in one zone with

10 circuits. The second floor is larger (overhang) and has one zone

with 3 circuits covering 790 sq. ft. and another with 4 circuits

covering 1088 sq. ft. It has an 8'-0" ceiling heights throughout, with

the exception on a 16'-0" x 20'-0" family room that has a vaulted

ceiling with 2 skylights. There are a relatively normal amount and size

of windows and the home is well insulated. I realize I need more

specific information, and I don't have design temp. of the system, but

the Weil McLain HE II Boiler has a DOE Htg. Cap. of 82,000 Btu/hr and a

Water Mbh of 71. I can't get info as to the actual total lengths of the

radiant circuits or the spread of the loops on the tubing.







He has the diaphragm tank on its side and the copper mains and headers

are 1" until they reach the boiler room and then they're reduced to

3/4". They just cut into the existing lines where the old zone valves

were and left the circulators on the returns. Then they added a 1" zone

with a circulator on the supply. So one circulator is pumping away and

the other two are pumping to the PONPC.







He apparently has done some of the work with his friends and I recommended the following:







1. Remove the two circulators from the return and replace them on the supply.



2. Add flow control valves and after all three circulators on the system side.



3. Check the charge on the diaphragm tank (12 psi) and re-pipe it so it is facing down.Maybe get a Spirotherm air separator.



4. Pipe supply and return headers to full 1 1/4" copper and re-pipe mains to full 1".



5. Add appropriate isolation and drain valves to facilitate draining and purging.



6. Add gauge tee and gauge to check pressure on discharge side if at

least one zone and double check operation of boiler gauge/thermometer.







There are two Taco pumps (1/25 hp)- can't make out the model #



and one Grundfos UPS-20-42 pump (3 speed). Some photos are attached.







I appreciate any thoughts and help!!!



Thank you kindly!

<a href="http://www.heatinghelp.com/images/posts/24781/resize_CameraZOOM-20140823081904491%5B1%5D.jpg">

<img src="http://www.heatinghelp.com/images/posts/24781/thumb_CameraZOOM-20140823081904491%5B1%5D.jpg" width="200" height="150" alt="" />

</a>

<a href="http://www.heatinghelp.com/images/posts/24782/resize_CameraZOOM-20140823081845058%5B1%5D.jpg">

<img src="http://www.heatinghelp.com/images/posts/24782/thumb_CameraZOOM-20140823081845058%5B1%5D.jpg" width="200" height="150" alt="" />

</a>

























<a href="http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-reply/1341232/HW-Radiant-conversion">Reply</a>

Rich_49

Past winter

we had about 2 weeks of sustained below 10* temps at night and many days in the lower teens . Most are designing to 14-16* but I opt for 3* w/ 20 mph wind . Appropriate system design and outdoor reset as you know allow us room to go either way from design without compromising efficiency or occupant comfort . He is your friend I would suggest that type of design so he stays your friend . I sent you my information if you'd like to pass it on I will certainly do my best with recommendations and whatever help he requires .  

Hydraulic separation is always a good idea , can't do any harm . Mod Con is also always a good idea installed and set up properly . Maybe a small buffer tank is in order with the zones he has . How does he do DHW now ?



If my phone rings I always answer , he can't be more than 10 miles from me .