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HW Radiant conversion

steamfittersteamfitter Member Posts: 161
I am helping a friend, who lives in Jackson, N.J. with his home hw heating system. He has many issues with a radiant hw system that was originally a two-pipe direct return baseboard heating system. He may be interested in complete replacement of the boiler and all near boiler piping. Is there a reputable contractor in the Jackson, N.J. area that may be recommended for estimate?

I have recommended some changes in the boiler piping and am looking into doing a heat loss calculation. I have some info on the house, and I know I need more, but I wanted to get a rough idea on the boiler size because it seems small for the home.

The house has two heated levels and an unheated basement. The first floor is approx. 1600 sq. ft. and is completely radiant in one zone with 10 circuits. The second floor is larger (overhang) and has one zone with 3 circuits covering 790 sq. ft. and another with 4 circuits covering 1088 sq. ft. It has an 8'-0" ceiling heights throughout, with the exception on a 16'-0" x 20'-0" family room that has a vaulted ceiling with 2 skylights. There are a relatively normal amount and size of windows and the home is well insulated. I realize I need more specific information, and I don't have design temp. of the system, but the Weil McLain HE II Boiler has a DOE Htg. Cap. of 82,000 Btu/hr and a Water Mbh of 71. I can't get info as to the actual total lengths of the radiant circuits or the spread of the loops on the tubing.

He has the diaphragm tank on its side and the copper mains and headers are 1" until they reach the boiler room and then they're reduced to 3/4". They just cut into the existing lines where the old zone valves were and left the circulators on the returns. Then they added a 1" zone with a circulator on the supply. So one circulator is pumping away and the other two are pumping to the PONPC.

He apparently has done some of the work with his friends and I recommended the following:

1. Remove the two circulators from the return and replace them on the supply.

2. Add flow control valves and after all three circulators on the system side.

3. Check the charge on the diaphragm tank (12 psi) and re-pipe it so it is facing down.Maybe get a Spirotherm air separator.

4. Pipe supply and return headers to full 1 1/4" copper and re-pipe mains to full 1".

5. Add appropriate isolation and drain valves to facilitate draining and purging.

6. Add gauge tee and gauge to check pressure on discharge side if at least one zone and double check operation of boiler gauge/thermometer.

There are two Taco pumps (1/25 hp)- can't make out the model #

and one Grundfos UPS-20-42 pump (3 speed). Some photos are attached.

I appreciate any thoughts and help!!!

Thank you kindly!


  • RobGRobG Member Posts: 1,850
    Call Joe

    If your friend truly wants a quality contractor he should call Thatcher HVAC. Joe Starosielec  will take care of your friends issues in a quality driven and professional manor. I have never met him (that I'm aware of)  and have only seen photos of his work and heard customer comments. You will get top notch work and service. He probably won't be the cheapest but you don't get what you don't pay for.

  • Rich_49Rich_49 Member Posts: 2,540
    edited August 2014
    I am

    right next door in Toms River . . I just got a bit freed up too . I think I might just be qualified .
    You didn't get what you didn't pay for and it will never be what you thought it would .
    Langans Plumbing & Heating LLC
    Serving most of New Jersey, Eastern Pa .
    Consultation, Design & Installation anywhere
    Rich McGrath 732-581-3833
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