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Replacing shower diverter spout

ChrisJ
ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,238
in Plumbing
So our diverter spout has been binding and jamming up since we bought the house in 2011.



I've put it off this long but really need to do something about it and I have a few questions.



1 : I'm assuming this just unscrews from the copper pipe coming out of the wall? What are the chances it will put up a fight and I'll wish I was dead as I pull the tile off of the wall to replace a kinked pipe?



2: Is there a specific diverter spout anyone would recommend? I'd like something that will hold up for years and don't mind paying more for it.



3: To caulk or not to caulk? I've seen some of these caulked to the tile, and other times not. I would assume caulking is the way to go but would like other opinions.



4: Caulk? What kind of caulk do you guys use in a tub when you want a job to last?
Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment

Comments

  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265
    Diverter Spouts:

    Post photos of the spout. It is important to know what type it is.

    Its not a killer job. I never had one where the wall had to be replaced unless the tile was already falling off.
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,238
    Type

    Hi icesailor,



    I don't have a picture here with me of the actual spout, but this is the same type.
    Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment
  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265
    Spouts:

    Does that have a big cut out on the bottom in the casting next to the wall? If it does, look up inside with a mirror. It might have a Allen Screw holding it in to a piece of 1/2" copper tube. Try turning it CAREFULLY. Don't break it off. If it doesn't come off, take some Kroil and spray it up on there for a few days. You might have to destroy it. If it doesn't have the cut out and it is using a copper adapter, you still might have to destroy it. Whatever it is, they are easily replaceable. If it has a set screw, DO NOT try to unscrew it. It isn't held on that way. You'll destroy the surface of the copper tube.

    Keep us posted.
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,238
    Grease

    Ok so I looked, no slot or hole in the bottom and I could not turn it by hand. 

    Decided to try some stem grease, or whatever this waterproof valve grease is called and was able to get it working really nice.  Seems like the main part that was binding was the stem of the handle where it passes through the top of the spout.

    I just don't know how long it'll last.  Maybe it'll last for years.



    If I end up having to remove this, what is the safest way as far as my 1/2" copper pipe coming out of the tiled wall? 
    Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment
  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265
    Replacements:

    Spray some Kroil (or whatever liquid stuff you like) down the stem hole. So called "Plumbers Grease" is a Petroleum based product.  and may cause the O-Ring on the stem to swell up and stick. My favorite is Super Lube synthetic grease.

    If you ever need to get it off, I usually put the odd end of a 6" adjustable wrench into the spout and slowly apply pressure. Because I'm quite certain that whomever installed had a personal thing against Teflon Tape, it probably won't come off because the White Metal of the spout is now welded on to the copper adapter. If it isn't going to come out, cut around the spout exposing the copper tube and unsolder the adapter. You might have to do some serious demolition of the spout. Solder a new adapter in the proper location and screw the new spout on.

    Most new diverter spouts now connect with an O-Ring so you don't need the a new adapter. Just be sure to always round over the outside corner/edge of the copper so you don't rip the O-Ring. Lube it up with some silicone grease. It will still be working fine when we are both dead and gone.

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