Peerless WBV03 Steam Boiler Warranty

Nova

It happened. My 2007 Peerless WBV 03 Steam Boiler cracked. Apparently, the low water cutoff failed to stop its demise. Since it was installed in 2007 by a competent tech, how do I apply for coverage under PB's 10-Year Warranty. Or am I SOOL?

nicholas bonham-carter

Peerless demise

Usually the warranty is through the installing contractor, or another Peerless approved installer. Since you say the LWCO failed, and allowed the boiler to run while dry, I would think that Peerless would not honor a warranty in such a case. What caused the LWCO to fail? If it was lack of maintenance, then the installer who last performed any maintenance in the last year, if he did not follow the Peerless maintenance instructions exactly., could be liable for such an oversight.

If whatever maintenance which was performed, was done by you the homeowner, then you probably are SOOL.

Post some pictures of the installation piping, so that we may see any problems which should be corrected when the replacement boiler is installed.--NBC

Nova

PB PICS

Problem is I don't know who installed it. Warranties are usually a joke anyway. I was merely taking a guess at the LWCO being the culprit. Really, I don't know. This boiler has been running out of water daily during high heating season and I'be been filling it up--slowly and usually when it's cold. A month or so ago, I changed an air vent in one of my rads, which improved the mileage on water use so mush so I didn't have to add water for a couple of weeks at a time instead of daily. (But doing this caused the next rad to shake, rattle and roll -- OK, it banged a bit.)



I uploaded some pics and I hope they help. The tech who wants to install a new PB says he plans on using the pipe setup as is.

Steamhead

The main vent is leaking too

that and the other leak are probably what killed this boiler.



How long is the main, and what pipe size? Is there more than one main?

nicholas bonham-carter

Replacing a peerless

This would be the time to measure all your radiators, and calculate their heat capacity (EDR ), so that you know whether the boiler is correctly sized for the system.

You may also want to consider a switch to gas if it is available, which would require a different burner.

Make sure the new main vent is mounted on an antler with an elbow to protect it from water-hammer.

The new boiler will need to be cleaned (skimming), so discuss with your installer who will do that 6 hour job.

Save the parts from the old boiler, (sight glass, etc) in case you may need them in the future.--NBC

Snowmelt

Nick and steam head

If you where to do this would you use a double header, with a drop down, also was there a swing joint ?

I'm going to ask this question, would you ever you mega-press from viega?

nicholas bonham-carter

Press tool joints for steam?

I think there would be too much expansion and contraction for a copper pressed-joint header on a steam boiler, but you could always try it, and see. Threaded steel pipe is better in that regard.

Yes, I would use both risers, with a larger diameter drop header, as it would make the final fitting easier especially if done by the homeowner. The drop header has at least two advantages that I can think of:

It really can absorb the stresses of expansion and contraction before they are transmitted into the boiler block. The HO's peerless was installed using only one riser, so the swing joints on it were probably sufficient. With two, then the extra protection of the drop header is better.

It can also isolate the residual oils left over from installation, so they will not drain back into the boiler. In skimming, you could use the Peerless method of simmering Arm&Hammer washing soda first, and then add water slowly to let the level rise up to the horizontal connection of the header, and slowly overflow. A separate small drain in the equalizer at waterline height is needed for this. The oil is going to leave the boiler more quickly, and completely, if it is submerged. During the first few weeks of operation, the equalizer waterline drain valve can be opened to drain off any extra oil accumulation.--NBC

Snowmelt

Thanks

Only comment I have on that would be the press too is a steal not copper, also I seen some steam boilers from this site with either ball valves or gate valves after the header going to the main supply? The valves where there for?

Also have you ever heard of installing a indirect water to a steam boiler? Or having a tankless coil the way to go

Jason_13

Replacement boiler

The old boiler probably is not under warranty. Manufactures warranty covers manufacturer defects not LWCO failures.

I would replace with a Megasteam 3 pass boiler if staying with oil. It is the most efficient oil steam boiler out there.

Replace that main line steam vent with a good quick vent and make sure all the steam mains are insulated. It should be piping in iron and not copper.

Nova

New Boiler and New Questions

Since I started this post, here is the outcome especially for the benefit of those who replied earlier. In short, I found an oil tech who replaced the Peerless with another WBV-03 due largely for cost reasons, i.e., the piping could stay the same except for the pipe with the pinhole that he replaced and the new Main Steam Vent. Note that I am not at all a steamhead so many comments I received I could not understand, but I do appreciate the efforts. NEW ISSUE: The radiator in mid-run makes water gurgling or surging noises and the next radiator in line groans and bangs so loudly that the floor seems to move. I'm thinking the line in the basement may have changed pitch when the tech fixed the leaking pipe, but I'm not sure how feasible that is. Any educated guesses? I assume the tech skimmed the boiler, but I wouldn't know what to look for. Any tips? Thanks....

BobC

Check the pitch

on every horizontal pipe you can reach in the basement and watch out for any sags in a pipe run. It's important that any water has a way to drain beck into the boiler, any trapped water can cause water hammer when steam comes across it.



If you are noticing a lot of movement in the gauge glass the boiler probably needs more skimming. It takes several skimings to get rid of all the oils in a boiler after it is installed.



Bob

Nova

Using my four-foot level

to check on the pitch of every horizontal pipe in the basement will be my task in the next couple of days. About the site glass....do you mean the glass would actually shake? Or that the water level would bob up and down in the glass? Sorry for the stupid question.

BobC

Gauge glass

We all start learning with a lot more questions than answers. The people on this board are happy to spread any knowledge they have with others,  don't ever be afraid of asking a question on this board.



The water line on a gauge glass will rise and fall somewhat when making steam, if it's more than 3/4" that means the water may still have oils in it. The water should be clear or have a tea colored look to it unless you have steam master in it - then it will have a violet hue to it.



When checking the pipes for slope be watchful for any dips along a run of pipe, a long dip can create a good sized pond. It's easier to spot dips buy stretching a string along a long length of pipe. Have a shorter level available for short runs, don't trust your eyes. While you have the levels out check all of your radiators for proper pitch.



Post some pictures of the new boiler and header so we can see if anything looks strange If you can localize the area the noise is coming from, post pictures of that piping.



Bob

Fred

Probably Pitch/sag

Since the problem is confined to those two radiators and they are on a single main and next to each other, my guess is that that line is either not pitched properly or has a sag in it. Is this the area that the plumber repaired? If so, he may have created a dip in that line or a high spot along that line by inserting a replacement pipe that was either a little to long, pushing things out, or to short, pulling things in. Do make sure the new boiler was properly cleaned and skimmed. If it was cleaned, you may need to skim it yourself, several times to get all the oils off the surface of the water. You can look at your installation manual for skimming instructions, it not difficult, or, if you determine (based on water bounce in the sight glass) that a skim is needed, come back to this thread and any of us will guide you through that process.