Skimmer valve failed!?

ChrisJ

I just found my skimmer valve was leaking when I removed the loosely fitted plug I had in the end of it and found it filled with water.

The valve I used was a Hydrovalve1 1/2" ball valve and from what I can tell the boiler side of the ball is scratched and rusted badly.  I can't tell if this is from debris, steam, or both?



Either way I need to do something as all I have now is a steel cap on the end of the nipple that is in the boiler.  I don't feel safe with this only because I remove it from time to time and don't want to find it rusted on there.



I can't see a gate valve being a better solution as it's just going to get junk stuck in the area the gate seats in.   What do other guys do?  I'm thinking of trying to find a brass cap or a brass coupler and just do away with the valve.

BobC

What is it made of?

I looked at mine last week and it was fine, my 1-1/4 Watts ball valves ball looks just as clean as it did when it was installed in October of 2012 - no signs of any deterioration. I do have a threaded brass plug on it's output just for safety, I think it was only about $7.



I assume it's chromed brass but I really don't know.



Bob

Dave in QCA

Apollo

My 1 1/4" Apollo is just fine.

ChrisJ

Made of

Not sure but my first guess was chromed steel. I haven't put a magnet to it to see yet. The housing is a yellow brass. I suppose the ball could be chrome plated brass but the "rust" marks look a lot darker than yellow to me that's why I assumed rusty steel.



Here is a link to the same valve.



http://www.supplyhouse.com/Hydrovalve-HV150TLF-1-1-2-Full-Port-Threaded-Ball-Valve-Lead-Free

ChrisJ

New skim port

So I decided to eliminate the valve and install this instead. Might be hard to see the color but they are both solid brass.

heatpro02920

I use apollo valves

never heard about an issue.. The brass plug will be your best bet if its becaoming an issue, did you use any skimmer chems in the boiler initially or ever? if so maybe they were corrosive...

ChrisJ

Chemicals

Nope, only thing I use is the steamaster tablets during normal use.



I have a few guesses of why the valve failed. Perhaps rusty water drying on the ball sticks a little better than when its wet and was able to get past or into the plastic seal. I used the skim valve a lot, especially in the beginning so maybe it was just how I was using it. Maybe it was just a defective valve, or perhaps it doesn't like the high temperatures of steam and junk worked its way into the seals when they were hot and soft.



So far it's the only valve I've had fail on the boiler. All drain valves which are also ballvalves are still fine and my king valves that are gate valves rated for steam are also fine.

ChrisJ

Installed

My new "skimming apparatus" is installed.  I went with a plug rather than a cap because I can remove and install it using a 12" adjustable rather than a pipe wrench. 



It's near impossible to tell from the picture but both the coupler and plug are LEE brand brass made in USA.

FHills

Is my skim outlet improperly plugged

I have been following the discussion here with interest because on another thread, I was advised that my boiler needs to be skimmed. (http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-thread/150421/Questions-regarding-the-main-vent-and-auto-water-feeder-that-cuts-off-the-boiler-every-10-minutes).  When I went to look for my skim valve, however, I noticed (or at least it appears to me) that my skim outlet is plugged up by the low water cut off.  Now, the auto water feeder / LWCO originally did not come with the boiler.  It was installed afterwards by another plumber.  Did he install it improperly or did so in a way that has deprived my ability to skim?  Thank you. 

BobC

Look in the manual

to see if they call out a skimming port. It should be at about the level of the upper gauge glass fitting and 1-1/4 or 1-12" in diameter. It could be on the side or back depending on what boiler you have.



Bob

nicholas bonham-carter

Dude where's my skimming port!

It may be plugged, and behind the knockout to the left of the upper gauge cock.

If so then you will have to use the pressure relief valve tapping--NBC

Fred

Presssure Relief valve

I don't have a skim port on my boiler either. I put a Tee on the outlet for my pressure relief valve, mounted my relief valve on the top and put a plug in the end of the Tee to give me a permanent skim port. I'm not sure why a lot of the older installations don't have skim ports installed but they are most definitely needed.

FHills

Meanwhile on the other side of the boiler is this --

Does this look like a skimming faucet?  

BobC

Yes

That is setup as a skimming port. The plug to the left would be better because it's larger but the setup you currently have should work.



Bob

ChrisJ

Valve

Here is a picture of the failed ball valve.

I just noticed it's not even a Hydrovalve but an Everflow brand.



Looking at it in the picture it actually looks like the coating came off of the ball.  It does appear the ball is brass rather than rusty steel.  This is the side that was facing the boiler since November of 2011.  It's hard to tell, at first I thought there were scrapes but now it looks more like the coating just came off while rubbing against the plastic seal.



Perhaps it's just a bad valve, or maybe Everflow ball valves can't handle steam.  Or maybe rust or something just worked its way in between the ball and seal. 



Any and all opinions welcome as always.