Top of tank oil filter

Bill Julian

Can I install a filter at the top of the tank using a return line as well? Im going 60 feet to burner over head I'd like to put the filter at the tank instead of the burner because the boiler is in the kitchen not much room at all? Thanks

icesailor

Why?

Is there some reason you won't use a Tigerloop at the burner and a filter there too? Then, you only have one line to suck off from the tank?

Like they do all over Europe? In fact, in some European countries, they are required, no matter what you do.

I can imagine myself if confronted with a oil filter mounted on the top of the tank. I get out the catch panand balance it on top of the tank. About the time I get the canister off and the oil is in the catch pan, it falls off the top of the tank, spills down the side of the tank and drips on the floor. I have to get out more Speedy-Dry and clean up the mess. A filter at the burner/Tigerloop, allows me to put the catch pan on the floor and catch all the oil. Only requiring a quick wipe with a rag.

Bill Julian

Oil Filter

Thanks for that. Here's the thing. This boiler is a W/W gold with rear flue outlet the boiler in on a slab house (we call then campanelli homes) in out area. With the boiler in the kitchen surrounded with a metal frame the space for the Beckett burner circ, 2 zones of heat temp V

and other piping makes it very difficult to install the filter at the Beckett. This the only reason I ask about this. I always come off the Beckett with the filter but if I can put the filter on top of the oil tank I;d do it in this case. I always use a tiger loop as well. Not sure if I need a return line being 60 feet from tank to burner either? Thanks

Bill Julian

oil filter

Correction last post that is W/M Weil Mclain.

heatpro02920

I would still put it at the burner...

I would have to see a picture, it doesn't have to be super close, just in the burner room, use stainless flex lines from the t-loop ultra to the pump and bolt the t-loop where ever it will fit.... There has to be some clearance there, I can not picture a ci gold jammed into a closet as they are not z/c units...

Bill Julian

Oil Filter

I just found a TL S220 with the filter on the bottom. Maybe Ill use that one and avid the second return line from the tank.

heatpro02920

that is the T-loop ultra

I was talking about in my above post, all one unit, comes with a gauge, use braided fuel lines from the TL to the pump and it will look nice, and still allow you to open the chamber for service with out disturbing hard copper lines... The stainless hoses are available at most supply houses, they are similar to what Buderus packages with their G115 and G215 boilers...



So run 3/8" encapsulated copper from the tank to the TL, then the double braided lines from the tl to the pump connections... The tl comes with a wall bracket, I have done it many times it looks very nice when done and works very well... good luck...

Bill Julian

Tiger Loop

Yea that is what I will do. What about the by pass plug? I do mostly gas boilers that's why the questions. I do my share of oil but mostly gas. I believe the bypass plug is needed at the Beckett pump.

icesailor

Bypass Plugs:

The TL uses a 2 pipe pumping array. You need to install the by-pass plug like you would any other two pipe oil system.

OuterCapeOilguy

Regardless of where you put the filter, a deaerator (TigerLoop or Sid Harvey Smart-Flo) is a must; with a two pipe system between tank and burner, you will end up filtering 30+ gallons per hour when the burner is running, which is stupid. With the deaerator, you are only filtering the oil which is being burned, as in a 1-pipe system. You can always mount the filter near, rather than over, the tank; I use a Ramset fastener to affix a piece of wood to the basement wall and mount the filter bracket to that. Both TigerLoop and Smart-Flo are available with or without a built-in spin-on filter; seems to me you should be able to find room on the side of the boiler to mount the one equipped with the filter just as easily as one without. Either way-when changing the filter, close the firomatic at the deaerator inlet to keep fuel from draining out of the line to the tank and having to be refilled. Fill the new filter before installing it, and there will be no issues with getting rid of the air. The deaerators are self-priming, but they'll prime faster if everything's full of fuel to begin with.

OuterCapeOilguy

By the way-yes, you do have to install the by-pass plug for the deaerator, just as you do for any two-pipe system.