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Should I switch...and a few other questions.

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I am in the process of replacing my old oil burning boiler and converting to gas. Any answers to the questions below or other advice would be greatly appreciated.



First, does anyone suggest I keep my current boiler? Pictures are below. It is a Spencer Type C and is at least 50 years old. The plate says it is 349K BTU, but I am not sure how many BTUs the oil gun is actually producing.



The only benefit I see to keeping it is that I have been told it could still last a very long time. I have even been told it could outlive a new boiler, which may not last longer than 15 years. This was why my father (who ran the building before me) was against replacing it, but that was well before oil went about $4.00 a gallon.



This past year I spent around $8,000 on oil. I used around 1875 gallons at between $4.1 and $4.239 a gallon. I think this is high, particularly since I barely heat the building. The heat turns on at 5:30 am and then shuts off at 7:30 am (to 70 degrees) and then turns back on at 5:45 pm until 9:00 pm (at 69 degrees). All of my tenants leave the building during the day. On weekends though I keep it at 68 all day.



According to Con Edison's gas cost saving estimator, I would save around $4,000 to by switching. They have the cost of gas as expressed in a gallon of oil as $2.01. The estimator also notes that this does not include any savings from equipment changes. By switching to modern boiler and water heater, would I save significantly more? I have been told that my current boiler is not particularly cost effective for heating hot water.



Lastly, in one of the pictures you can see this rust build up at the bottom. It is about an inch by an inch. Is this something I should be concerned about?

Comments

  • Nintzk
    Nintzk Member Posts: 7
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    another attempt at pictures

    Another attempt at a picture...
  • Nintzk
    Nintzk Member Posts: 7
    edited February 2014
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    rust spot

    And the rust spot
  • nicholas bonham-carter
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    Looking for fuel savings

    First of all, you could prepare the system for the new boiler, or burner. The following should be done this winter:

    1:make sure the main vents are adequate for removing the air from the system at a pressure of 2 ounces-install a low pressure gauge.

    2.make sure the temperature is kept at a constant setting, but at the average of the upper and lower settings you now have. Changing the setting uses all the fuel saved during the setback, and sometimes more.

    3. Make sure the thermostat or it's sensor (Honeywell Visionpro) you use is well located (in the coldest part of the building, as long as there is a radiator in the area.

    You will not reap any benefits with a change to gas unless you pay attention to the basics of the steam system.

    When you have a new boiler in, the installer must read the instructions, before being paid.--NBC
  • BobC
    BobC Member Posts: 5,479
    edited February 2014
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    Do it

    I looked into doing the same with my Burnham v75 a few years back but decided against it because that particular boiler had known issues that told me it just wasn't going to last. I did install a Smith G8 and EZ-Gas 15 months ago (after my oil tank developed a slight drip) and have saved a lot of money on fuel costs.



    Nobody can say for sure how long your old boiler will last but if you replace the burner with a gas gun you will save a lot of money on fuel - gas is just a lot cheaper than oil. You will have to install a stainless steel chimney liner and that boiler will have to be well cleaned now and again after the first season. The installer has to know what he is doing and the gas burner has to be set up with a combustion analyzer for safe and proper operation. Even with a new boiler you would need the chimney liner.



    If I were you I'd have it converted to gas because if it fails in a year you can just put the gas gun in a new Smith or Slant Fin boiler. have the installer determine the EDR of all the radiators so the firing rate is correct. The EZ-Gas is good up to 250,000 BTU and there are other models that go up from there.



    Bob
    Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
    Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
    3PSI gauge
  • Nintzk
    Nintzk Member Posts: 7
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    thanks

    SWEI, thanks for the link. I also ordered Dan's book on steam heating.



    BobC, I initially wanted to keep the boiler and just replace the burner, but I haven't found an installer who is willing to do this. One plumber I spoke with (who seems to get a lot of recommendations) said he wouldn't do it because my current boiler has none of the modern safety devices. Can anyone recommend someone in NYC who will do this? Thanks.
  • BobC
    BobC Member Posts: 5,479
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    thats a problem

    Getting the required safety's installed (if tapped ports are available) is not cheap and there is always the chance something could go wrong and the boiler would be toast. Maybe it's time to bite the bullet, gas is going to be cheaper than oil for a long time. Also running a steam boiler without safety's is asking for trouble, your insurance might just be null and void without them.



    If you replace that boiler you could well save $4k a year in fuel and that will  pay for itself in just a few years. If you go with one of the boilers I told you about and it is properly installed it should last 20-30 years, what is 20X4k??



    As i said before it has to be done right, the boiler has to be matched to the heating load and the piping has to be inspected to correct any deficiencies.



    Bob 
    Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
    Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
    3PSI gauge
  • Nintzk
    Nintzk Member Posts: 7
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    The Main Vents

    Nicholas, I am not sure where my main vents are. I do not see any in the boiler room. Towards the front of the building (the boiler is in the back) there is one vent which looks like a main vent. Could there be just one in an old system? Does every line need a main vent?