Like this picture heat pipe is close to ceilings.

magic90015

<a href="http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2hgbr6e&s=8">http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2hgbr6e&s=8</a>

<a href="http://i57.tinypic.com/rrjsw3.jpg">http://i57.tinypic.com/rrjsw3.jpg</a>



and there's many heat pipe that's close to wall.

I am not plumber but I just put thick toilet paper or foam around so it won't touch it. and I didn't hear it any noise. I think that the every heat pipe is connected to each other at some point, so if there's any heat pipe that touches the wall and it's not still it will make the noise. If it 's old building the paint will come off and make a gap(?) between the wall and the pipe and cause the raddling noise too. Just find E.V.E.R.Y heat pipe and wrap it around with toilet paper. Next time when I move to new apartment I will not move in to apartment where the heat pipe is close to wall support anymore lol. It took 3 months since last october to find all the heat  pipe -_-;;

P.S And the baseboard heater pipe also can cause this. So make sure no clamp is loosen or missing or touch nearby wall or any sort of heat cable etc.

Mark Eatherton

Don't waste your time looking for a law...

Unless it pertains to life, health or safety, there are now laws.



The only applicable clause here would be the requirement for it to be installed "in a workman like manner" and that is extremely subjective.



The code simply says the pipes are to be installed in a secure and proper manner, and they are in the eyes of the authority having jurisdiction.



A cut up polyethylene milk jug also makes a great slip sheet for pipes to keep them from clicking and ticking, especially when they are buried in the floor joists.

icesailor

Sorry but:

Sorry but in MY experience, the amount of space around that pipe is like Horseshoes and hand Grenades.

My idea of tight is when I bring up a heating pipe through a second floor to connect a baseboard heater to finish. I place the pipe exactly where I want it. I place a board under the floor with a piece of metal so the pipe can slide I screw a 2" X 4" to the floor and mount a 3/4" van hanger out of the way of the sheet rockers. I put a copper cap on the pipe so that the plasters don't slop plaster down the pipes or some slug doesn't urinate into a bottle and pour it down my pipe. The whole through the sub floor is 1 3/4" for plenty of installation room for my 7/8" diameter copper tube.

Only to come back to do the installation to find that the floor installer has beat my block out of the way, bent the pipe, and drilled a 7/8" diameter in the flooring for the pipe to come through and he drilled the hole in the wrong place so that it comes up against the sheetrock.  "How was I supposed to know? I wondered why the hole was so big. I just thought it was a mistake".

That's tight.

Those short little fine Sawzall blades were a wonderful thing.