Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.

If you've found help here, check back in to let us know how everything worked out.
It's a great way to thank those who helped you.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.

TOH - Multi-zone system, thoughts?

KbalzKbalz Posts: 53Member
Looks like a two pipe steam system they're converting to multizone using a central manifold?



Could this work for a one pipe? I would think pitching would be an issue.



I'm in a constant balance battle due to very drafty windows, and a single thermostat in the house.



<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jfzmIOUSzA">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jfzmIOUSzA</a> (updated to youtube)





Its odd because at the end, he says "hot water" will go into the manifold.. however the radiators look to be of a steam system. Maybe they're converting it from Steam to hot water using the huge rads?

Comments

  • Multi-zoning a steam system?

    The video was unavailable, but the accompanying synopsis mentioned pex tubing which is only for hot water.

    I think your system may need some balancing, instead of zoning (which never works properly).

    Are all of your radiators getting steam at the same time? Don't go by the room temperature for this. Plates with butter pats on them should all melt at the same time.

    If there are some slow ones, then check your main (not radiator) vents. If they show.signs of leakage, or look old enough to have been installed during the construction of the Pyramids, then replace them with Gorton 2's. A 0-3 psi gauge will show you if you are paying extra for having the fuel company force the air out of your system.

    Check your thermostat, and see if it has been set for steam, and see if its location is on an inside wall with a radiator in the room, but not too close to the front door.--NBC
  • icesailoricesailor Posts: 7,265Member
    Tool Bucket

    Teflon Tape.

    Don't leave the truck without it.
  • KbalzKbalz Posts: 53Member
    thanks

    Hmm sorry about the video. The text does say PEX however Richard explains it is some form of PEX that is layered, PEX-Aluminum-PEX - it is more rigid that plain PEX.



    It took me two years, but I've gotten them all to receive heat within 60 seconds of each other (finally!) :-) I think the problem is that my drafty windows are in the same vicinity of the thermostat, on the main floor. Upstairs is often 80 degrees while the main floor is 65, and all radiators are too hot to touch, its weird. Priority is to seal my windows this year !
  • ChicagoCooperatorChicagoCooperator Posts: 218Member
    TOH is big on new tech...

    Obviously, TOH is big on new tech, that's part of the fun of the show, they've done a number of steam to water conversions at various projects over the years. I think this one (can't view the video either) was one-zone hydronic to multi-zone though. 
  • vaporvacvaporvac Posts: 1,516Member
    thoughts on windows...

    I'll leave others to comment on your main question, but thought i'd comment on the drafty window issue. I used Peel-n-Seal with excellent results. I had a friend show me how to do it and keep it clean . It's clear and removable, but does last a fewyears if you don't open all your windows. It was amazing how silent my house became. I have a very old house and hate new windows. Some have original wooden storms, but I've since made interior storms with plexiglass which are excellent. When painted as the wood work you can't even see them. It's a fairly easy DIY project depending how involved you get and up the R value as much as exterior storms or replacemant windows. I haven't finished all the windows, but between these two approaches I've drastically cut down the air infiltration.
    Two-pipe Trane vaporvacuum system; 1466 edr
    Twinned, staged Slantfin TR50s piped into 4" header with Riello G400 burners; 240K lead, 200K lag Btus. Controlled by Taco Relay and Honeywell RTH6580WF
  • KbalzKbalz Posts: 53Member
    Video

    I found the same video on YouTube which is probably a better option:



    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jfzmIOUSzA
  • KbalzKbalz Posts: 53Member
    windows

    vaporvac - I'm the same way on the windows, mine is a 1930's house, I'd rather keep the windows as long as possible. I did try and add the peel-and-stick, but the frames and window edges were a bit too dirty..too cold to properly clean them up at the moment. Also too cold to caulke from the outside. My front and back doors need work as well: already have my sping to-do list!



    I've too thought a lot about making my own inner storm windows..some kind of framed plexiglass that I could remove in the warm season. Do you have any pictures to inspire me? any tips on how to fit them in a non-square window opening? My window openings are nice a deep, about 5 inches
  • vaporvacvaporvac Posts: 1,516Member
    sent you an email

    Check your emails. As a note on non-square windows... funny you should ask. My friend helping me just took one meaurement...Ugggh. I had to remake those for smaller windows! Take the top and bottom measurement for the width and also the height. Be sure to note the front and back of the wood to get the orientation right. That's the only way for a custom fit.. I did a dry run with each before slotting in the plexi. Make sure to number them and your windows to get them correctly placed each season, and attach something at the bottom sides to make pulling them out easier. Mine fit tight! They also help with the A/c, btw.
    Two-pipe Trane vaporvacuum system; 1466 edr
    Twinned, staged Slantfin TR50s piped into 4" header with Riello G400 burners; 240K lead, 200K lag Btus. Controlled by Taco Relay and Honeywell RTH6580WF
Sign In or Register to comment.

Welcome

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!