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Help ID cause for leaky radiator valve!

hboogzhboogz Posts: 104Member
Firs time poster, long time lurker.



After reconnecting the radiator, I noticed an immediate steam leak on this valve. As i began to shut off the valve, it started running water pretty bad. It eventually stopped, thankfully. I added a picture and some videos to illustrate what I witnessed.



<a href="http://s396.photobucket.com/user/sipe3202/media/House%20Pics/IMG_3671_zps7d096515.mp4.html">http://s396.photobucket.com/user/sipe3202/media/House%20Pics/IMG_3671_zps7d096515.mp4.html</a>

<a href="http://s396.photobucket.com/user/sipe3202/media/House%20Pics/IMG_3670_zpscb0973ff.mp4.html">http://s396.photobucket.com/user/sipe3202/media/House%20Pics/IMG_3670_zpscb0973ff.mp4.html</a>

<a href="http://s396.photobucket.com/user/sipe3202/media/House%20Pics/IMG_3672_zps8420f05b.mp4.html">http://s396.photobucket.com/user/sipe3202/media/House%20Pics/IMG_3672_zps8420f05b.mp4.html</a>







Is it a bad radiator valve stem? Nipple? Both?



I'm thinking about replacing the entire valve and nipple going into the rad, but wanted to reach out to see what the good folks on this forum have to say!

Comments

  • hboogzhboogz Posts: 104Member
    After looking...

    some more, the cause has to be a bad connection. Perhaps I overtighten it? Because the steam/water shoots out of the top of the nipple connection into the valve. I believe the valve is OK, but perhaps changing the nipple arm leading into the rad would solve, perhaps? Thoughts ?
  • ALIGAALIGA Posts: 194Member
    why was the radiator disconnected?

    is it leaking from the union or from the stem?



    if its leaking from the union, try turning the nut another half a turn.
  • BobCBobC Posts: 4,972Member
    Take it apart

    and clean the faces of the union and make sure everything lines up before trying to put it back together make sure the system is off first. I suspect you have it misaligned and that's why you can't get it to seal.



    Bob
    Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
    Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
    3PSI gauge
  • hboogzhboogz Posts: 104Member
    I actually...

    replaced the flooring around the radiator riser. As a result, i was off about 1/8" when lining up the rad with the valve. I lifted the riser and made the connection ( after applying a liberal coating of pro dope)



    I've attached a pic of the new flooring surrounding the riser/valve. I'll try another half turn, but if there is a misalignment issue -- what options do i have since the height difference is so small ?
  • BobCBobC Posts: 4,972Member
    If the two line up

    true and square it should seal, just make sure both faces of the union and clean and free of grit. If you can't get them to line up the valve pipe has to be extended.



    You might try putting pieces of plastic milk jug under all four legs and have someone rock the radiator as you tighten up the union. That should allow the radiator to move into alignment.



    good luck,



    Bob
    Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
    Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
    3PSI gauge
  • hboogzhboogz Posts: 104Member
    Thanks..

    Should I want to extend the pipe, would i need a black pipe coupling and the shortest black pipe that's threaded on both sides? Any specific type of pipe that's best suited for steam?



    I've yet to try another half-turn, but will try that tonight.
  • BobCBobC Posts: 4,972Member
    Black extention fittings

    Pexsupply sells pipe extenders in sizes up to 1-1/4", your local supply house should have them but I don't know if the big box stores carry them -



    http://www.pexsupply.com/Black-Fittings-173000



    Be careful thatb using one of these doesn't leave you with insufficient slope under the floor. You can always use a 1/4 or 1/2" strip of wood to raise the radiator up and protect the floor.



    Bob
    Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
    Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
    3PSI gauge
  • hboogzhboogz Posts: 104Member
    The half turn...

    didn't work. I tighten up that bad boy with all i got and it still leaked. So, I'm going to take it apart, clean the union faces again and try again. If all else, get one of those black pipe extenders (which HD didn't have) and then put either a 1/4 or 1/2 strip of plywood underneath.
  • ALIGAALIGA Posts: 194Member
    you dont need to extend

    if cleaning the surfaces dont work.



    get a new valve and a spud wrench.
  • hboogzhboogz Posts: 104Member
    Thanks...

    Based on the pics-- would I need a 1" valve and I assume 1" nipple/nut to replace the one going into the radiator ( forgive me if my wording is off)
  • ALIGAALIGA Posts: 194Member
    i think you need

    1 1/4 valve it will come with a matching union/spud.



    home depot carries it, roughly 25-30 bucks i beleive.
  • hboogzhboogz Posts: 104Member
    great...

    Thank you. I assume then, the labeling of a valve with a "1" means 1 1/4 ?
  • ALIGAALIGA Posts: 194Member
    that is correct

    you should measure the union nut, and the riser pipe so you have a point of reference when you go to home depot.



    it can be 1 1/4 or 1.
  • Leaking union faces

    Try one more time to make it reseat itself.

    Disconnect, clean the mating surfaces thoroughly, apply a little dish soap to the faces.

    Use the blade of a shovel to raise up the valve, as you get the union nut started, and begin to tighten. The soap seems to help everything go back in place.

    You could also try unscrewing the original valve one turn, and see if that gives the height you need.--NBC
  • hboogzhboogz Posts: 104Member
    Great

    tips NBC. will try tonight and report back.
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