Taco I series Mixing valves?

Drewgrizz

Is it possible to use two Taco bumblee (primary&secondary) pumps and a Taco I series mixing valve with the 3 sensors to control my heating system? I am using manifolds out to Myson radiators with TRV's, so I will have heat control at the radiators. I am trying to build a very simple but effecient system. What would kick the boiler on with this setup? The I series have a set points for high and low water temps and outdoor reset so if it gets cold outside it should start injecting hotter water into the seconday system and with the TRV's in each room I should be able to adjust room temp and the ecm pumps should kick on and off automaticlly I would think?



Sorry for my ignorance I am a mechanic by trade, but doing a design build on a house with my contractor buddy. We are hiring his go to plumber to install the system, but the guy is old school and if I let him have at it would probally be all zoned with 10 pumps and I would pay 50 bucks a month in electricity to run the system. I am wanting to do a modern simple system that he can understand therefore install. He is selling me new lochinvar boiler he has layin around for cheap and I plan on installing a gasification wood boiler before next heating season.

Dave H_2

pumps and i-Valves

Drew,



Take a look here http://www.taco-hvac.com/uploads/FileLibrary/102-145.pdf for the i-valve instructions.

In particular take a look on page 2 the graphic labeled "3-way iseries valves". This gives you the best description for what you are looking to do.



Use the BumbleBee for the system loop circulator. The boiler loop circulator will probably be specified by the boiler chosen. If using a mod-con boiler, I would suggest the BumbleBee for the boiler loop in the Delta T mode. If this size circ fits, you can use it in the constant speed mode.



Dave H.

Dave H_2

Also,

I see no issue with using the two in the system. Modulate the water temp with the i-valve and let the BumbleBee do its thing.



As for controlling, the i-valve does not have to be activated on a call for heat. Supply 24volt power and hook up the sensors and it will modulate. It can accept an endswitch call form a zone relay.



As for the circulator, it depends upon how many zones (if any) you have planned and how the zoning procedure is setup (zone valves or pumps)



Dave H

Drewgrizz

Boiler

I really don't want to zone the system or use thermostats. I want to use manifolds and do home runs to each radiator. Fire the boiler up every fall with a switch and let the 3way, ecm pumps, and trv's on the radiators do their thing. I am just not sure if this is possible? The boiler is supposedly and old style cast iron unit, but the guy hasn't brought it over yet so it could be a knight for all I know then I will be using a whole different setup to control all this. But if it is a old Lochinvar could I just wire it to a switch and let it keep the primary circuit at 170*? I wouldn't take much to heat a few gallons of water if there is no call for heat from the 3way or bumblee in delta mode. But like I said I am no boiler guy and am just kinda going off how I think all this works.

SWEI

If it's a non-modulating boiler

I'd seriously consider an outboard ORC, as that will manage both primary and secondary loop temps.  A buffer tank might not hurt, depending on the boiler size versus load size.



∆T pumps on both sides should be fine in this application, but watch your pump curves.  The Bumble Bee curve is roughly equivalent to that of a 008, which is not a good fit for a low head-loss boiler HX.

Drewgrizz

boiler

I am gonna have 500 to 1000 gallons of buffer when I get my wood boiler up and running, but for now I will have none except I plan on running a sidearm hx on my electric water heater.   I am gonna plumb it off the manifold like its a radiator to help defuse some of the btu's of the boiler.  Would the 4 way I series valve help control the primary side better?