Leaking radiator valve

StephanieSteamHeatNewbie

Hi all - I just purchased a home with steam heat so I've been heavily referencing this site to get my bearings for how to maintain the system that was not at all maintained by previous owners. We've already replaced the sight glass, pigtail, and pressuretrol on our system. When we first turned the heat on and many of the radiators were spitting, leaking, or loudly hissing so we had an HVAC friend take a look and everything was all clogged. Replacing those parts seemed to help with keeping the heat running right so far. There's still a disconnect between what the pressuretrol is set to (1.5 with a differential of 1) and what the actual unit indicates for the pressure but everything is operational so I'm not sure what the reason for that could be (any suggestions?). We also have an automatic water feed so we know the system isn't getting flooded. It's been cold in NJ the past few days so I've had the heat cranked all day long and high to keep our old, drafty house warm.



Now, my only concern is the living room radiator which was turned off during our inspection (now I know why!). It is the furthest radiator from the boiler (aside from one upstairs in my daughters room) and it's the only one that we can't see the pipes that lead up to it from the basement (they're in the walls). Whenever I crank up the heat to get it going (above 70) the valve on this radiator drips a cup or two of water instead of steaming at all. We pitched it since we moved in and that seems to have helped but an HVAC friend suggested we may need to pitch it more and also slightly from the side where the pipe comes up into the radiator since we can't see the angle of the pipes leading into it. It's not a constant leak and eventually it does stop. I wanted to know if this is simply the valve that needs to be replaced - currently fitted with 1A size - or something more. I've tried adjusting the steam output on the valve but it feels so loose and just spins like it's not really controlling anything. The radiator does get hot and heat up the room so it's functioning, less this problem. There are hardwood floors in this room and there is some clear evidence on the wood right under the valve that this leak existed for a while before we got here and is also why we suspect this radiator was turned off. The valve to open/close the radiator off is also pretty corroded looking but that could be from years of non-use as well. Photos showing valve (while leaking), full radiator including pitch, and open/close valve attached. Any help is greatly appreciated!!!

BobC

Put a level on it

The radiator has to pitch towards the pipe that feeds it, You don't need a lot of pitch but you have to have some. Also check the pipe underneath to see if that has pitch. If you can't tell, you may have to raise both ends and maybe raise one end more than the another. The air vent on that radiator will have to be cleaned or replaced.



I have a 1/4" plywood shim on my living room radiator just to get a little pitch on mine and it's happy  for 30 years now.



Bob

StephanieSteamHeatNewbie

One end is raised

It's hard to tell since my photo posted upside down, but we have the end with the valve pitched up sitting on a 1inch or so piece of hardwood. I think we do need to lift up the side with the pipe too because we can't see the pipes leading into it from the basement to see what angle they're at. We're going to replace the vent for sure - sorry for using improper terminology and calling it a valve in my OP. Should I stick with 1A vent or get a different size. I'm still reading up on what the different sizes all are. Thanks so much!

Hap_Hazzard

Actually, the valve IS leaking.

It looks like the packing is leaking, but the union might also be leaking. It has already taken a lot of the chrome off the floor plate, and I hate to think what it's doing to your woodwork. Usually you can just tighten the packing nut, but if it still leaks you need to replace either the packing or the valve.



Also, it looks like that valve might not be all the way open, is it? On a one-pipe radiator, the valve should always be all the way open or the radiator will fill up with water.



By the way,where in NJ are you located? There is a first class steam man who works out of Metuchen but covers the whole state. He calls himself JStar here on The Wall. You may have read some of his posts. It might be a good idea to have him come out and look over your system.

BobC

Vent type

Some people have problems with the Hoffman !A getting blocked by water but they are not known for acting like fountains. One problem they do have is a very sloppy adjustment mechanism, much to sloppy for the price they charge. You might be better served with a Gorton or Maid O Mist air vent, I like the MOM 5L that comes with 5 orifices in the box because it's very easy to change the vent rates on them.



You should consider installing an auxiliary 0-3 PSI low pressure gauge on your boiler so you know what pressure your running at. Do your radiators all hiss a lot? That could indicate high pressure or the need for more main venting.Venting the radiators slowly and the mains fast works best for most folks.



Bob

StephanieSteamHeatNewbie

New Vents

Thanks for the reco on vents. Are those brands you mentioned ones I could easily get at home depot/Lowe's? I can look into installing an auxiliary gauge on the boiler. The pressuretrol is set to 1.5 now, but the boiler pressure gauge sometimes indicates up to 10 PSI when it's really going (and we've had two different pressuretrols installed - we think the first was defective.



Yes, all the radiators do hiss/steam a lot when the heat is cranked. Our HVAC friend also said we should change out the steam vents/valves (not sure of proper term) that are off the pipes in the basement. We have two that I can see and one was visibly leaking all the brown crud/water in the pipes onto the wall/desk that's below it. Are those the main vents you're talking about? Sorry I'm so new to this!

StephanieSteamHeatNewbie

Packing replacement

Thanks so much - yes, the valve is all the way open. I'm guessing replacing the packing is something I should call in a professional for and not attempt myself, correct?



I'm in Fair Lawn, NJ - Bergen county about 45 mins to an hour from Metuchen. Thanks for the recommendation!

BobC

No

Those vents are usually not available at the big box stores, try a hardware store or a supply house. If you can't find them locally you can try Amazon or pexsupply.com.



You should have someone accurately measure your pressure and get it down below 2PSi and hopefully lower. You main vents should be changed to something that will clear out all the air in the mains in two minutes or less.



Bob

Hap_Hazzard

Packing

You can do it yourself if you get the right kind of packing and do it with the heat off. Start by wire brushing the valve stem to get the greenish white crusty stuff off, then unscrew the packing nut. Don't even try to get the old stuff out, just wrap a few turns of new packing cord around the stem then tighten the nut down.



Don't use teflon packing. Use the graphited string type.



This assumes you have already tried just tightening the packing nut and it didn't help.

StephanieSteamHeatNewbie

Thanks!

Just after I posted I youtubed how to do it and it looks straightforward enough assuming there's not major issues that I uncover once I take the knob off. Thank you for the help!