Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
DHW coil help please
dalipaintedme
Member Posts: 17
Hi I got this boiler use from a friend and with all of your help I got the old one out. I'm attempting to use the old piping attached for the water coil, I see on the right is the cold inlet and the left is the hot outlet. I put cold water supply on the pipe feeding the cold side but right below is a Watts regulator and the pipe is cut, is that mixed hot water out to house ( the pipe is to the right of the firebox,) right above the coil is a tee that goes back to cold. But one part of the tee isn't connected. Where would that go to?
Thanks a million
Thanks a million
0
Comments
-
Not mixing valve
That is a domestic relief valve. You must be on LITo learn more about this professional, click here to visit their ad in Find A Contractor.0 -
that is open , to drain ,
they are required to be installed without any valves blocking the coil.
Here , we have to install them close as we can ,preferably with a fitting adaptor to a T to the coil , righty tighty , which is a lot more difficult a deal .
be habby ...
Weezbo.0 -
Eh
So that's just suppose to be a relief valve then? The valve has a dial with numbers that look like temperature numbers 175 165 etc0 -
ok ,
that is so you can dial in temp , like something of a secondary high limit .
where if it goes beyond a certain number it dumps. a secondary high limit sees the boiler temp , went past the boiler high limi control and then goes , "
' Ok . something is not working right Here!'
and shuts down the boiler.
the dialaable relief i have asked to use in the past and the inspector AHJ was like against that idea .
so .... just roll with it..
you are going to have that bad boy running soon ..*~//:)
and i am habby for you.
William0 -
Did you get a burner as well?
it would be good to take a look at it ...oh,
the other thing is ,
is there a way to bring the boiler down a bit like 4 " or so?
i look at the flue and wonder if you will be able to have a 90 to the barometric T at the height you have it at the moment is why i ask.0 -
Thanks
I cannot lower the boiler, it's on my slab so kinda stuck with the height0 -
Riello
Has a riello burner0 -
-
That is great !
a riello is really a fine burner . if i had a wish i was thinking ... it would be for you to have that burner.
ok ... does it have two silver pipes coming out of it for oil or one?
does it say BF ?
let me see if i can see it in the new pics..0 -
ok thats fine...
before you get going ...
the return to the boiler...
i know this is a drag buh is that 3/4" pipe IT ?
take some hard thought now and do yourself a huge favor and upsize that if so.
the yellow milk jug looked like a cork in the stack sorry.... you have plenty of space to get at it ... ok... one thing then were it my new lash up with that much space for the right parts , i would make a mad dash for some pavers to get it up off the deck .
rock it away from the wall stick in two pavers on the flat , rock it back at the wall and stick in the other two.. that will get it off the deck a ways and that,s always a good thing .
it leaves a little ledge to put tools and nowhere for stuff to drop down and become a total mind bind trying to retrieve things ..0 -
Distance
Is there a minimum distance that the draft damper from the top of the boiler flu exit0 -
my apologies , i have the flu
and my life is upside down ...
i have been drinking gallons of water every day and sweating this off for nearly 2 weeks.
my attention span is close to a broccli ...maybe...
the stuck answer is 18 " to the barometric T .
i use a draw band at the base near the boiler , to a 16" length to the T then a riser in your case to 2 adjustable 90's one vertical stepped over and the other on an angle by 90 ish to another draw band to the length to your chimney .
then when ever you clean it you loosen both draw bands and put the entire piece in a green garbage bag , take it out of the place and clean it in the open air someplace.
that way you have clear access to the stack and the top of the boiler ....
sorry i took so long to get back ...
William.0 -
Peerless Piping
Download the installation instructions for the model Peerless boiler, and it will be much easier for you to see what goes where. Leave the gas and burner work to a pro.--NBC0 -
the riello looks to be an F-5
this oil burner is a very clean buring unit . at the moment he is looking for some rudimentary help in getting the parts and pieces together and flying in the right formations.
that way , when he has things looking like they are in order he will be able to have the burner tech dial in the combustion .
that alone will save quite a bit of time when there is one available.
i see nothing wrong in that approach to be honest with you.
by running down the new 24 gauge stove pipe and the draw bands and getting them screwed together with three mechanical fasteners per joint is likely something that is within his abilities.
getting it together early, allows him to get the plumbing together and find clear paths for the headder , zones and mixing valves. the electrical lay out and oil lines considered now for a clean install, will then have a home that can be laid in straight and secured ...
so far , i see a home owner with the idea of getting as much of the leg work done as he can and he is making it happen .
William.0 -
Thanks
Yes I am goiing to have a pro come in and do a once over before I start her up. but I want to have everything in place. being that this boiler is in such a tight spot I need everything mocked up.
As far as flow checks, I am using TACO 3/4 SWET CHECK, due to the tight cramped space, I went with these. The plumbing supply recommended these based on space requirement.
When I was looking at the box it says 12" minimum from the circ pump, how important is that.
Thanks for all the help thus far.0 -
i like to "Go With" ....
manufacturers requirements.
think wide... W i d e n your perspective now ... you might be able to use a near-by flat surface to mount your near boiler piping ...
then tou would make a suppy and return to that spot ...
that you would do to make working on it in the future a dream rather than a nightmare.
take your time .. think of the zones and zone valve controller where they can be easily reached ... it may be that the manifold bolted to the wall adjacent to the boilers left hand side , (In what appears to be a hall way) might be the easiest placement ...
it is close enough yet is free from encumbrances ... then you could purge the lines and everything from a place that doesn't require standing on one ear while working on it....
i am in a chat room that has a "Doodle" screen....
pipes can be drawn in colour and its quicker to describe in picture than words...
maybe if you click on my contact and send me a message i can give you the addy..
my name is
Safe there.
William.0 -
Done and done
Thanks for all of the help. Last night about 7:00 we got her fired up and to temp, no leaks and all purged of air. Getting the burner cleaned and tuned in a hour or so. We let the baseboards get hot yesterday and it worked outstanding. Waiting for the clean bill of health from the service tech. Thanks for all the help0
Categories
- All Categories
- 86.3K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.1K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 53 Biomass
- 422 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 90 Chimneys & Flues
- 2K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.4K Gas Heating
- 100 Geothermal
- 156 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.4K Oil Heating
- 64 Pipe Deterioration
- 917 Plumbing
- 6.1K Radiant Heating
- 381 Solar
- 14.9K Strictly Steam
- 3.3K Thermostats and Controls
- 54 Water Quality
- 41 Industry Classes
- 47 Job Opportunities
- 17 Recall Announcements