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Boiler oversized
mtlight
Member Posts: 28
Boiler oversized
Post Hurricaine Sandy finding boilers quickly was difficult. I purchased a WM EG45(392 sq ft steam) rather than my old EG40(325 sq ft of steam) My connected load is 270 sq ft one pipe system. . As you can see, the smaller boiler put me closer to my connected load than the larger one. I still had some additional room for a radiator which i need for a kitchen remodel. since my install, I changed two main vents. Steam seems to move efficiently to the end of the main withing a minute or so of the steam beginning. I added a low pressure gauge. The boiler was skimmed 4 times and the water line seems pretty steady. My main and takeoffs were all insulated. Here are few issues that I could use some advice on:
From a cold start it takes the boiler about 40 min to get up to 2psi where the ptrol cuts out the boiler and the cuts back in between .25-.50 psi. once the pressure is reached from the cold start, the rads are almost hot all the way across but usually can not make a call of 3-4 degrees without cycling. Usually 3-4 cycles of 3min run then 2min off until the thrermo call is reached. Looking at the specs of these two boiler, it appears that the boiler size, weight, sections and controls are all the same expept for the manifold tray and maybe a part to the flu.
Question: If i change the manifold and the tray from a 6 burner to a 5 burner(which is what the user manual shows as the difference) with the flue part also changed, am i downsizing this boiler correctly to my prior size boiler (325 Sq ft). I have done a lot of the boiler work myself and im willing to do do this(in the summer lol) To me it logical and not too labor intensive. Am I missing something? suggestions? Thanks in advance
Mike
Post Hurricaine Sandy finding boilers quickly was difficult. I purchased a WM EG45(392 sq ft steam) rather than my old EG40(325 sq ft of steam) My connected load is 270 sq ft one pipe system. . As you can see, the smaller boiler put me closer to my connected load than the larger one. I still had some additional room for a radiator which i need for a kitchen remodel. since my install, I changed two main vents. Steam seems to move efficiently to the end of the main withing a minute or so of the steam beginning. I added a low pressure gauge. The boiler was skimmed 4 times and the water line seems pretty steady. My main and takeoffs were all insulated. Here are few issues that I could use some advice on:
From a cold start it takes the boiler about 40 min to get up to 2psi where the ptrol cuts out the boiler and the cuts back in between .25-.50 psi. once the pressure is reached from the cold start, the rads are almost hot all the way across but usually can not make a call of 3-4 degrees without cycling. Usually 3-4 cycles of 3min run then 2min off until the thrermo call is reached. Looking at the specs of these two boiler, it appears that the boiler size, weight, sections and controls are all the same expept for the manifold tray and maybe a part to the flu.
Question: If i change the manifold and the tray from a 6 burner to a 5 burner(which is what the user manual shows as the difference) with the flue part also changed, am i downsizing this boiler correctly to my prior size boiler (325 Sq ft). I have done a lot of the boiler work myself and im willing to do do this(in the summer lol) To me it logical and not too labor intensive. Am I missing something? suggestions? Thanks in advance
Mike
0
Comments
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I'm getting deja vu.
Didn't you just ask this question a couple of weeks ago?
http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-thread/148339/Boiler-oversizedJust another DIYer | King of Prussia, PA
1983(?) Peerless G-561-W-S | 3" drop header, CG400-1090, VXT-240
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