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threading on steam valve body
archibald tuttle
Member Posts: 1,101
Have 2 2" automated valves on the steam mains from an old coaler. I actually opened one of these maybe 20 years ago and got it working. The actuators are Barber Coleman. Assume that goes for the valves as well. pictures below.
So I pulled the actuator off and can't get the stem to move on one. I am getting steam but i suspect it might be stuck partway as that side steams a little slower. (but i might be hallucinating and there could be a milliion other ouijas at play).
Anyway, I like to take stuff apart, but when i got down to the 2 and 3/8" nut to pull the cover off the valve body put my socket over the nut and put a 3' pipe wrench on the socket it didn't budge (valve stem is too long to get breaker bar in socket and don't have a 2 and 3/8" deep) (the valve stem is very thin and don't want to try to pull on it to free it, rather take the cover off, i think that is how i did it the last time but too much eating out of aluminum pots since then to remember).
I let the system steam up a little to heat it and no dice. it is a nice brass body in pristine shape on the outside. so i don't think it wise to heat it with a torch . . .
. . . but before i get the 4' pipe wrench of deep socket and 1" impact wrench, I thought I should check to see if anyone thought it could be left hand thread on the valve body from some reason i cant think (esp. since the valve is not driven by rotating, the actuator pulls the stem in and out, no rotation).
thanks for any notions. (and while we're at it any recollection of the wiring for this beauty would be helpful. i just played with it the last time to figure out which was open and close. I think C is probably common, but i can't remember why there are RBC and R1 , B1 and C1 terminals and maybe G and H is an end switch. hopefully there are some deadmen browsing today..
thanks,
archibald tuttle
brian
So I pulled the actuator off and can't get the stem to move on one. I am getting steam but i suspect it might be stuck partway as that side steams a little slower. (but i might be hallucinating and there could be a milliion other ouijas at play).
Anyway, I like to take stuff apart, but when i got down to the 2 and 3/8" nut to pull the cover off the valve body put my socket over the nut and put a 3' pipe wrench on the socket it didn't budge (valve stem is too long to get breaker bar in socket and don't have a 2 and 3/8" deep) (the valve stem is very thin and don't want to try to pull on it to free it, rather take the cover off, i think that is how i did it the last time but too much eating out of aluminum pots since then to remember).
I let the system steam up a little to heat it and no dice. it is a nice brass body in pristine shape on the outside. so i don't think it wise to heat it with a torch . . .
. . . but before i get the 4' pipe wrench of deep socket and 1" impact wrench, I thought I should check to see if anyone thought it could be left hand thread on the valve body from some reason i cant think (esp. since the valve is not driven by rotating, the actuator pulls the stem in and out, no rotation).
thanks for any notions. (and while we're at it any recollection of the wiring for this beauty would be helpful. i just played with it the last time to figure out which was open and close. I think C is probably common, but i can't remember why there are RBC and R1 , B1 and C1 terminals and maybe G and H is an end switch. hopefully there are some deadmen browsing today..
thanks,
archibald tuttle
brian
0
Comments
-
closed end wrench and a hammer
slightly tap the hammer to see if it will loosen.0 -
so thats one vote in favor of . . .
dragging my big impact down from the garage and letting that do the tapping. i ain't got a closed end 2 and 3/8" and i'm thinking i'll have as easy a time getting a socket and i can route a good sized air line to the basement. it's only about 50' from the garage.
i'm assuming that its gotta be a right hand thread but . . .
archibald tuttle.0
This discussion has been closed.
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