Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

Design-build hot water washdown

M Lane
M Lane Member Posts: 123
Hey guys- I have been asked to DB a washdown area for a restaurant equipment supplier who re-sells old equipment.. They've been using a 200MBH Hotsy outside (2.2 GPM), but want to move operations indoors. I want to give them @ 2 -3 GPM @ 160 under street pressure, which is 70 psi. I am thinking a water heating ng boiler with a 30-40 gallon storage tank. Want to stay under 200 MBH to avoid ASME. Anyone done something similar and have specific units they'd recommend? I don't think tankless could keep up with a 100 degree temp. rise in the middle of winter. I also don't see an advantage in using a side arm.

Comments

  • Rich_49
    Rich_49 Member Posts: 2,769
    You didn't get what you didn't pay for and it will never be what you thought it would .
    Langans Plumbing & Heating LLC
    732-751-1560
    Serving most of New Jersey, Eastern Pa .
    Consultation, Design & Installation anywhere
    Rich McGrath 732-581-3833
  • Mark Eatherton
    Mark Eatherton Member Posts: 5,858
    edited December 2013
    Run the numbers first….

    Doesn't sound like you need much storage, if any at all.



    2.5 GPM (flow) X 8.33 (lbs/gallon) X 120 (160-40) X 60 (minutes/hour) = 149,940



    Take that number and divide it by the combustion efficiency and that will tell you how many BTUH input are needed to get that output.



    Assuming an 85% efficient appliance, 149,940 / .85 = 176,400. You are below the line as it pertains to the ASME requirements, which for the record are an input over 199,999 btuH, OR a storage tank greater than 120 gallons, OR an operating temperature in excess of 180 degrees F. Exceed any one of those parameters and you will need an ASME configuration.



    If it were me, I'd use a reverse indirect capable of transferring those kinds of btu's per hour. Turbomax works great for me.



    http://www.thermo2000.com/pdf/en-US/specs/specifications_turbomax.pdf The 23 gallon unit would work great.



    Really, a major quantity of storage is a waste if the flow will always be at 2.5 GPM.



    I also think I'd go with a modcon boiler, but that will add to the cost of the job.



    ME

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • HDE_2
    HDE_2 Member Posts: 140
    A condensing tankless would work

    Say you use a 199,000, .95 EF, 96% thermal efficiency condensing tankless

    Even at a 110 degree rise:



    199,000 / 8.33 / 60 / 110 * .96 = 3.474 continuous GPM @ 110 degree rise
  • M Lane
    M Lane Member Posts: 123
    Thanks

    Great info so far. Much better than guessing.

    What do ya'll think about a commercial Noritz, since a strong condensing tankless might work?
  • bob eck
    bob eck Member Posts: 930
    A O Smith tankless gas water heater

    Take a look at the A O Smith ATI540H tankless gas water heater www.hotwater.com it is a high efficiency condensing TGWH with 10 year heat exchanger warranty on commercial jobs 15 years HE warranty on residential jobs 199,900 BTU input.



    40* F incoming water temp 160* out going water temp 3.1 GMP



    check it out.
  • Steamfitter66
    Steamfitter66 Member Posts: 117
    Darn near perfect application.

    Norritz or Rinnai. No need for a boiler etc. Watch your venting and gas line sizing, have a good digital or slac tube manometer If its your first get trained a read the installation manual a couple of times.
This discussion has been closed.