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Steam Main help
vermonster1
Member Posts: 2
Greetings,
I am experiencing some radiators at the end of my runs that are slow to heat, and some that barely heat at all. Reading as much as I can, I am pretty sure my mains need much more venting than what I have currently, but my local contractor isn't really helping with advice, nor seeming like he really has an idea.
I currently have 2 main runs:
1st one is 61' long, 2-1/2" pipe. 2nd main is 48' long, also 2-1/2" iron pipe. Both of these are currently vented by a Ventrite 75 on each run. Can someone tell me what I need for adequate main venting on these, assuming the ventrite is not sufficient?
Thanks!
I am experiencing some radiators at the end of my runs that are slow to heat, and some that barely heat at all. Reading as much as I can, I am pretty sure my mains need much more venting than what I have currently, but my local contractor isn't really helping with advice, nor seeming like he really has an idea.
I currently have 2 main runs:
1st one is 61' long, 2-1/2" pipe. 2nd main is 48' long, also 2-1/2" iron pipe. Both of these are currently vented by a Ventrite 75 on each run. Can someone tell me what I need for adequate main venting on these, assuming the ventrite is not sufficient?
Thanks!
0
Comments
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vents
replace them with Gorton #1 vents. you can find them on pexsupply.com
can you post some pics where the vents are currently located.0 -
more main venting needed
if you have the head room, I would use Gorton 2's, which have the biggest bang for the buck.--NBC0 -
Thanks.
Thanks Guys.
I don't have a photo with me at the office. The vents are about 2' from the drops at the end of the mains. They are extended up about 10" on a nipple.
Is there any concern on over venting, or is it " the more the better"?0 -
More
More is better, generally.0 -
What I did with same problem for Main Vents
1. I replaced the smaller hoffman vents with bigger Gorton and Hoffman. I see in specs that Gorton have a bigger diameter vent hole and consequently quicker venting but I just used what I got ahold of and they worked out fine.
2. What I did was to put a 3/4 nipple into main pipe and on top of that a union..then another longer nipple and tee with other fittings to put two vents on each main. The reason I used the union was so I could make the setup on the bench and just install it due to clearance problems and worked fine.
Getting the air out from the mains quickly allows the steam to rise and go into the radiators faster. You could use alot of extra fuel without venting properly or not paying attention to proper steam pressure.
3. Make sure the radiators have the proper vents and are pitched correctly.
4. Make sure pressuretrol is working and set to specs. The low steam pressure works great for me..I'm adjusting and checking that and know that these big buildings operate on less than a pound sometimes. Check the gauge pressure on the boiler..mine was too high and was guided by this site to clean the pressuretrol hole on bottom of unit and it worked fine after that.
5. I went over every aspect of the system..changing a steam shutoff valve on a radiator and checking pigtails for blockage and making sure pressuretrol hole in the bottom was open and not blocked.
6. My system is efficient now..the steam goes to all the radiators in the house quickly too.
7. I've also tuned up the oil fired burner by Beckett and researched all that stuff too as well as clean out the boiler firing chamber and brushed out the inside.
8. Everything you do to fine tune these things helps a bit to bring more efficiency. I consider the furnace like a finely tuned engine in a car and like hearing a quiet,efficient boiler.
I've learned and applied all this stuff from books,videos,this site,practical applications and asking alot of questions to mechanics and technicians0
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