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New carlin 60200 wiring help

PhilJ
PhilJ Member Posts: 2
I have a carlin 60200 revA control without any problems till the basement flooded at my Mothers house. When I attempted to dry everything out the white L2 ? wire broke from the connector inside the control. I purchased the new style 60200, Part # 6020002S with a manufacture date of 10/22/2013, Series E. I believe it is the manufacture date. It is the date on the side of the control which contains the part # for the delay and trial for ignition. Unlike the old control having wires coming out from underneath the control, this one has 2 rows of spade style terminals, 5 along the top marked L2. And 6 along the bottom. Starting from the left, L1(red w/ white), Limit In(black), the next one is Line Heater, and has a red plastic cover on the terminal. The last three is Motor(orange), Ignitor(Blue), and the last one labeled Valve(violet).

My issue is that there is no red wire or red with a white tracer wire connected to the old control. Every other wire but no red wires at all. There is a jumper on the T/T terminals on the outside of the control and yellow wires going to the cad cell. I removed the cover to the aquastat and found a red wire and terminated there, it did not go to the control. And on the old control all the white wires were twisted and crimped together then one single white wire went to the control.

With this new control and 5 L2 terminals can I keep them connected and run 1 white wire to the L2 terminal, does it matter which one?

Should I run a red wire from the aquastat to the control or wire it as the old one is wired?

Comments

  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 4,828
    depends, depends.

    First off, if everything flooded you probably have bigger problems then just the control.  What about the burner motor, oil valve, and transformer?  I wouldnt reuse them. It's a huge risk.

    What about the boiler?  I'd really think twice about re-using everything.

    L2.  You could, but it's so easier and neater to put the spade terminals on the wires and plug them in, instead of trying to wire nut 5 or 6 wires together.  In only takes a few minutes, why risk loose wires causing a problem

    As far as the missing wire, it depends on what else is hooked up and how.  It's possible, if you're not using pre or post purge to ignore, but the control needs constant power for pre and post purge, otherwise everything fires up at once.  If you don't have both L1 and the black wire from the limit, your nozzle heater isnt really working as it should.  And you need the burner to shut off if it hits limit-very important. 

    From the aquastat (limit) you should be wired to the black terminal of the control (Limit)

    Check the wire nutted red wire for constant voltage, if it has it, it goes to the L1 terminal.

    I would wire it as recommended. And hope another electrical component doesn't start a fire.
    steve
  • JStar
    JStar Member Posts: 2,752
    Burner

    STOP!



    If the burner was flooded, it needs to be completely replaced. No if's, and's, or but's. Do not attempt to dry it out and keep it in service. It poses a MAJOR fire hazard right now.
  • PhilJ
    PhilJ Member Posts: 2
    I should have explained

    When it flooded the water didn't go above the concrete pad that the boiler sits on. So the boiler, burner etc were not submerged. A pipe above the boiler leaked and got the control wet. When I went to look at it the first time the control had water on it but the burner was not wet. It looked like the water was pretty much sprayed on it from what I observed.
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