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Regulating steam valve
nicholas bonham-carter
Member Posts: 8,578
I have a steam valve with a straight handle on a 1913 Dunham system, which is frozen. I can remove the handle and graduated dial, but do not know what else can be taken apart.
I can soak it in Kroil, or PB blaster, if that would not degrade some old rubber piece inside.
I am sure I saw an engineering drawing of this type of valve in some literature here, but, now I cannot . Can anyone help?--NBC
I can soak it in Kroil, or PB blaster, if that would not degrade some old rubber piece inside.
I am sure I saw an engineering drawing of this type of valve in some literature here, but, now I cannot . Can anyone help?--NBC
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Comments
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Could you post a pic?
Hi NBC, I have some of those too and have downloaded some of the lit. I know there is an exploded view somewhere.Two-pipe Trane vaporvacuum system; 1466 edr
Twinned, staged Slantfin TR50s piped into 4" header with Riello G400 burners; 240K lead, 200K lag Btus. Controlled by Taco Relay and Honeywell RTH6580WF0 -
Bookmarks
I have several bookmarks to Dunham stuff. Not sure if this is what you want or not, but thought I'd try. Thrid one has some engineering drawings of valves.
http://www.heatinghelp.com/article/163/Older-Steam-Heating-Systems/1298/Dunham-Handbook-628
http://www.heatinghelp.com/files/posts/3223/Dunham%202,%20original%20traps.pdf
http://www.heatinghelp.com/files/articles/1821/dunham.pdf0 -
Dunham regulating valve
Thanks for your replies. I am sure that this valve has a bonnet, and I will try to loosen that, and use a bit of PBBlaster. I'll post pictures later.
There is a graduated ring, with a stop. This ring is held down with a big nut to the valve bonnet body, and has a small pin on it's underside which can fit into several indentations in the bonnet body. This probably enables the valve to stop opening at the point where too much steam is being let into the radiator. There are 2 big radiators in the Apse of the chapel, with this valve. I suppose that in the original coal burning days, these big rads could have been needed when it was very cold, and maybe not when it was milder.
They are just too nice not to use.
The only problem with my project is in providing the air conditioning (oh curse our hot summers!) if I would use a Mitsubishi mini-split system with 4 indoor units each up in a coffer in the ceiling, I will have to give the order to drill through some of the most exquisite mosaic tile work I have seen. Even though somewhat small (2 in,), it's daunting!--NBC0 -
Cores
Horizontal coring machine on scaffolding has done me well. I've never cored holes in finished walls like that, but they have little vibration to them. I doubt you'd shake any other tiles loose. I did several holes in my house last summer and was able to avoid needing any mortar work between the bricks when I was done.0 -
Historic preservation opportunity
Bring an experienced tile wrangler in there and (once you take photos) have them remove the mosaic in the areas you plan to drill. Find the best looking escutcheons you can, leave a bit of margin. Diamond wet core drill would be best -- impact cores can wreak havoc on fine finishes.0 -
Decisions decisions
In some old movie, I saw an old diamond cutter spending time deliberating on the cut of a large stone. He was having trouble making up his mind making the decision as to where to cut. He worried and complained. Finally, he got ready for the cut, and made it right.
Maybe I will do that. I will agonize for days before I decide!--NBC0 -
have you tried a little shock therapy
wrap metal with some black tape to protect surface, put a small monkey wrench, and gently tap with a mallet.
it should move with the help of penetrating oil.0 -
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What a stunner!
Now I'm even more convinced. Do the right thing for those who are caring for this a hundred years from now. Save and document all the tiles you remove so that the original finish can be restored if needed.0 -
Agreed
I agree. It takes pictures to understand the extent of your agonizing. I'd be a nervous wreck busting through that.0 -
Replacing old regulating valve
I wonder if the same spud would fit a new mepco valve. They are such a pain to remove.--NBC0 -
Spud fun
After twisting off the brass internal ears with the proper spud wrench (about 50% of the time), I drive my "internal pipe wrench" into the spud and get heavy with a Stillson monkey wrench with 3' cheater attached. Only broke one internal wrench but was a small price to pay......one of those days when something comes apart and nothing broken (me included) it's a successful time, one feels like you could just home. Superior Tool internal pipe wrench....is there any for larger than 1" anywhere???. Is this project in Omaha? Just down the road from me and I'd love to see it. Depot has those wrenches, very handy. Also I wonder now about putting the impact wrench on the internal wrench, if that would walk the spud out?? Good luck with this.
Also you might look at Mitsubishi MFZ-KA 09, 12NA. Floor standing indoor units that a little spendy but are nothing compared to messing with the tile you picture. Cover these with some antique brass grill/wood box enclosures that are removable; a little distressing on materials and they might fit in.0 -
Spuds
I always cut off the spud-side union and then get a 3 or 4ft wrench on the pipe. Never fails. Also helps to lay the radiator flat on the floor.0 -
Collapsing pipe
Whenever I get into this often the brass nipple collapses to egg shape or breaks off so I found by inserting a tight fitting pipe nipple into the victim (grind down if necessary or use a bolt of the right size) this keeps the nipple round as it is removed. Again a successful day!...And I image it would not be good time to tip over a CI rad in the process.0
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