Retrofit some baseboard to my leaking slab levitt heat

whitefeather

Ok so in order to get us through this winter I needed to make a retrofit so to speak. My slab developed a leak, in our 1947 levit. on the main loop. we also have an extension in the back of the house that has a radiant zone. this was not leaking but I decided to abandon it to add some baseboards.



The pipe for that zone goes under my slab and under the staircase, where the pump, and expansion tank are located. this is piped in 1/2 copper.

I used this pump and expansion valve and capped off the radiant, and added 40' of baseboard. Using 3/4 pex (o2 barrier) to pipe the system

I bled the system a lot. closing the boiler return and opening the purge valve before the boiler return. the pump comes on when called for heat, and the boiler temp gauge is 180 (what the aquastat is set at) the pressure is 27 psi hot, and about 20 cold.



I just done seem to have the heat output that I would assume, the supply is 140 and the return is 80 (this is measured with a IR gun)  we don't use the boiler for DHW we use electric for that



any help would be greatly appreciated. no one even wants to touch this system. this is just a fix for the winter, as I will be moving the boiler, to the garage come the spring (and money)

dalipaintedme

pump size

would stepping up to a 008 help to overcome the pipe size reduction

Roland_18

Retrofit.............

Your baseboard probably requires 180*F supply temperature in order to provide it's rated BTU output. What kind of baseboard is it?

whitefeather

fin line 30

Its fin line 30, the boiler is making 180 degree water, and the aqua stat is set at 180. and the temp gauge for the boiler is showing 180



 there is no mixing valve for the zone.

Weezbo

nice work

you have it together .

this is two 3/4 "X 1/2" T's , 2 3/4" flanges and 2 3/4" couples away from being about as good as you can get .

oh and two 3/4" 90's ...and 3 3/4"adaptors for the flanges ...





and some 3/4" pex or 3/4"copper . if i could draw you a picture ..



it would look like a capital H turned on its side .



the left side would go to the tank and line feeding it in 1/2" the right side and the central bar of the H would all Be 3/4".



the pump would be flanged on that with 3/4" and extended to a 3/4" couple losing the 3/4 X 1/2" coupling . in favor of a 3/4".



the lower part of the H would extend to the 3/4 x 1/2 couple on the other , in favor of the other 3/4" couple .

whitefeather

?

is this for this thread?

Weezbo

that way ,

you will be able to more closely match the signature of the heating you once had .



the circulator will run a tad bit moore with ashade more flow little less restriction , no big gain , buh ,



then the supply and returns should start to look more and more like they are the same

temp ...

at first it will be slow type situation as time goes on , the temps will rise in return ...



then when the two hit like their best "Balance " i think we can add some temp modulation to the supply side for increased temp in the new base board constant circ loop.



because a chunk of the mixing will be done in the 3/4" side of the H tipped over to the side with a higher step up mix ....



there is an improvement to that as well however for now that would be a handy thing to have the pieces looking like .



Weezbo.

whitefeather

so a

mixing valve would be a big improvement?  I assume you think I should put the mixing valve closest to the boiler?

Weezbo

what i described is basically turning it into a constant circ ,

slightly basic , branch fed mixer ...that could be mixed by supply water temps.

so basically yes ....with the mix question no as to location.







.

whitefeather

i

I will give that a go, thanks