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Frog Tape and IR Thermometers

knotgrumpy
knotgrumpy Member Posts: 211
Did a lot of dismantling and reconfiguring my heating system this past summer.



Found a few things that helped me, as a homeowner hydronic addict, and thought I'd share a simple one.



Use a length of Frog Tape on your copper tubing to get a really good reading with your IR Thermometer.



Put it long wise on the pipe to get a larger target. Frog Tape seems to have almost the perfect emissivity to give accurate temp readings.



Oh, peel it off when done. The heat will make it a little gummy after about a week. Cleans off easy enough though.

Comments

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 23,398
    great tip

    thanks
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • knotgrumpy
    knotgrumpy Member Posts: 211
    Hope it helps someone

    Thanks HR.  I've learned a lot from your posts and think you are blessed with an inquisitive and creative mind.

    I did a test with my homemade pulled tees and a John Deere tractor that you might like.  I'll try to post some pics later on.
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 23,398
    were the

    women and children inside during that test! Can't wait to see what you are up to.
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • knotgrumpy
    knotgrumpy Member Posts: 211
    I was...

    Home Alone!
  • knotgrumpy
    knotgrumpy Member Posts: 211
    Big bucks

    Hot Rod - This was result of millions of dollars of R&D :-)



    What do you think?
  • bob_46
    bob_46 Member Posts: 813
    Pulled tees

    Your manifolds look great, first class work . I've never heard of pulling tees with a John Deere. Do you anneal the tubing first? I used to build them by cutting a hole with a hole-saw and just silver brazing a stub in. I have some that have been working over thirty years no problems. I have built some using a T-drill and I would agree it's a better job .

    I read that you have an interest in mechanical things , maybe you can help me answer a long standing question. When you look at old machinery with a wheel on it like a fly wheel or bandsaw wheels or well wheels made of cast iron sometimes the spokes are straight and sometimes S curved. In fact they still cast well wheels both ways. WHY would they use the extra material and labor to make an S curve?

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • knotgrumpy
    knotgrumpy Member Posts: 211
    Bandsaw wheels...

    Thanks for the kind comments.



     

    I don't know about the spokes.  I worked in a production woodworking shop for a while.  Owner has a beautiful 100 year old 36" bandsaw with spiraling spokes.  Babbit bearings.  The machine just purred and was a delight to saw with.



     

    The cast iron frame was a work of art as well.  I just assumed that the designer thought things should be elegant AND functional.  It may be that a curving spoke is more aerodynamic?
  • Mike Kusiak_2
    Mike Kusiak_2 Member Posts: 604
    Spiral spokes

    I have wondered about his myself. Aside from the artistic aspect, the only thing that I could think of is that the curved spokes allow for a little "give," or flexibility compared to a straight spoke.



    When the wheel is cast, there may be unequal contraction as the metal cools, causing stresses to be placed on the spokes. With the curved spokes, the stress may be reduced because they are more flexible in the same way as swing joints in piping, which allow for expansion and contraction.
This discussion has been closed.