Rezeroing 3psi gauge?

ChrisJ

From what I've seen with my 3 psi gauge I need to let air back into between the gauge and the siphon to rezero it.



Am I the only one with this problem?  Has anyone installed a 1/4" valve open to the atmosphere to allow air in before taking a reading?  obviously you would open this valve between cycles to rezero the gauge before producing steam.

Maine Vent

Rezeroing my 3oz Wika

Chris, same problem.

My 3 oz gauges, 2 of them.

1. On the Boiler, with the pressure trol.

2. On the Main vent tree to measure end of Main pressure.



#1 boiler, sometimes goes back to zero, only will do it after a long time of not running. I have given up on these Wika gauges. I have numerous Wika gauges that I have bought over the last 2.5 years.



#2 Gauge seems to work???, and zero's out after the system cools a little. This gauge "I GUESS"

works ok.



I feel, that I have fussed enough with this new system, I'm done fussing with $40.00 gauges.



My pressure runs below an Oz, my vents are maxed out, My 8-way is doing a good job cleaning, can't find steam master tablets here in Maine.8-way does a great job.

ChrisJ

pressure release

I installed a tee and the cheesy valve that came on the bottom of my gauge glass in it. This allows me to open the section of piping going to the 3 psi gauge and allow air to enter.



I'm not sure what causes the suction, but I assume its the water cooling and somehow the water in the pigtail ends up slightly higher on the gauge side causing a slight pull. No idea really though other than opening the valve rezeros the gauge.

Maine Vent

I agree

I agree

nicholas bonham-carter

My gauge also

I think your theory of standing water in the pigtail being a little unbalanced and causing a slight vacuum holds water.--NBC

ChrisJ

relief valve

I will probably buy a proper 1/4" ball valve for this, but for now I had this laying around from the gauge glass.



To check pressure during a cycle I will close the ball valve going to the gauge from the pigtail and then crack this valve to zero the gauge. Once I close the (air valve) I can then re-open the valve to the system and get an accurate measurement.



At least that is how I think it will work. I don't see any other way unless someone makes a super light vacuum breaker. Even unscrewing the gauge caused it to go more and more negative until the seal finally broke. It is very very sensitive to any pressure change.



The tee for the valve came out a hair crooked but I didn't want it dripping on my switch box if I could avoid it. I'll be honest, I went too far because I was in a hurry but truth is it will avoid it from dripping on the switch box so I left it.

Steam_Starter

ChrisJ

You and I need to hang and have a few beers. You are as OCD about your system as I am! Maybe JStar can meet us and tell us how to improve the beer drinking!



Just kidding all....I love this site!



JLG

JStar

Gauge

MarkS beat you all to it! He basically did what you have; a tee and a cap.



I've noticed that these sensitive gauges are always going out of calibration on some systems. We use 0-32 oz. gauges on every boiler, and they very often go down into a vacuum. Now, I see the numbers more as an arbitrary benchmark, instead of an exact measurement.



As for the beer...I've found that the mouth is the best way to get it in.