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Pressure Relief Valve issues

g1823 Member Posts: 1
Had my 3.5 year old Munchkin M80 boiler serviced about 9 months ago... they cleaned and replaced the usual stuff (flame sensor etc) and also replaced the pressure relief valve that came with it because it was leaking. Well the pressure relief valve is leaking again... and now that I take the cover off and look at it it was installed improperly so it sprayed water all over the inside of the boiler. I found out when it was failing with F11/F09 codes... I think because the sensor and igniter might be shorted thanks to all the water in the cabinet. Obviously the valve is installed wrong as the water should be piped outside the cabinet if the pressure relief valve blows/leaks. They didn't do this because the valve was a different size and didn't line up with the hole. Besides that obvious issue of the improper valve install, what can I do about the leaks? Can I have a higher pressure valve installed? The boiler is supposed to be rated to 160psi...  this is a 30 psi valve.

At this point I have no heat and am waiting for the same contractor that put the valve in to come out and look at it.


  • Gordy
    Gordy Member Posts: 9,546
    edited November 2013
    I would

    Be getting the company back ASAP to fix the damage caused by the wrong relief valve installed.

    Then I would question the type of maintenance service you have been getting in the past if it was by same company. Just saying to install the wrong relief valve with the possibility of it discharging in the cabinet is not exceptable.

    A weeping relief valve could indicate a failed expansion tank if you have not had this problem before, especially if the new one popped also.

    No you do not want to up size the relief valve the boiler is not the only component in the system that has psi ratings.

    There is a reason it's popping I'm guessing a failed x tank.
  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 6,506
    edited November 2013

    Sorry for yelling. 

    Where did you get the ridiculous dangerous notion that the boiler is rated for 160 psi?  If I'm not mistaken, 25psi max  (have to get out the manual).

    The 30 psi relief valve is the correct pressure (but wrong valve for your boiler).  The improper installation is the reason for your new problem.  The first problem is an air or piping issue causing the pressure to rise the 30 psi threshold.

    Save the pictures.  Tell dumb dumb to get the right relief valve, pipe it correctly.

    You may need a new board to fix the problems, which should be on him.

    After the problems are fixed, call Munchkin and find a recommend installer for your area for future service and maintenance.

    Ill try to find you the manual.

    Edit:  Here's a link to the manual

  • g1823_2
    g1823_2 Member Posts: 1
    edited November 2013
    Pressure Relief Valve issues

    Well the same company came out (and the same tech even) and replaced the valve with a proper one that can be plumbed outside the boiler housing. I had already emptied the boiler and put a fan on it for several hours so it was dry enough when they got here and it fired right back up again.

    Unfortunately I am in a rural area and there are not a whole lot of places that have experience with these boilers and they do work on them so I am kind of stuck. I fully expect to get a bill for this call too.

    As to why it went off in the first place I am not sure... the supply line was open but there is a pressure reducing valve on it... maybe it somehow got tripped when the well pump kicked in (despite the reducing valve). I have the line closed now. Maybe the valve was bad... I went to take the cover off it when it first failed and the valve blew right there without me even touching it. Pressure was less than 10 psi and the boiler was stone-cold besides (60 degree water temp).

    The expansion tank was replaced last year with an Extrol #30 as the old one (a plain bladderless steel tank) rusted out and completely failed.
  • Gordy
    Gordy Member Posts: 9,546
    Stuck with company

    Did the tech check the x tank pressure properly?

    It must be isolated from the system when checked for proper fill psi. 12psi usually.

    A stuck pressure reducing fill valve will elevate system pressure also. Has it been checked?

    Sorry but just because they are the only company close does not mean you should except a bill for this.

    Have you looked under find a contractor here on this site?
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