Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

Cracked Radiator

Options
ErikG
ErikG Member Posts: 3
in Strictly Steam
I have a one-pipe steam system in my house. I removed the carper in my bedroom to reveal the water damage to the floor. I have not noticed the carpet being wet, but upon further inspection it appears one rib of the radiator is cracked and was slowly leaking when the boiler was running. I have shut the radiator off and the leak stopped. This weekend I am going to attempt to remove the radiator and shorten it as only one rib is cracked. I have a few questions regarding this;



-Can anyone tell me how the ribs on this radiator are put together (threaded rod or push nipple)?



-What is the easiest way to split the sections?



-If it is not possible to split the sections my grandpa has an extra two pipe steam radiator that he is willing to give me. Is there a way to modify the two-pipe radiator to work with a one-pipe system?



Thanks, Hoping to get this solved before it actually gets too cold out.

Comments

  • Dave in QCA
    Dave in QCA Member Posts: 1,786
    Options
    Does it have Tie Rods?

    From the photos you have posted, I do not see any tie rods holding the radiator together. That means that each section is connected to the next by screwed nipples on the inside of the radiator. YOU WILL NEVER GET THESE APART!!!!

    Best thing is to shop for another radiator. As close as it is to the wall, I'd go one section smaller.

    A 3 column x 8 sections x 38" tall is a very common size. If you get large tube style, it should have 5 tubes per section for the equivalent output as a column type.
    Dave in Quad Cities, America
    Weil-McLain 680 with Riello 2-stage burner, December 2012. Firing rate=375MBH Low, 690MBH Hi.
    System = Early Dunham 2-pipe Vacuo-Vapor (inlet and outlet both at bottom of radiators) Traps are Dunham #2 rebuilt w. Barnes-Jones Cage Units, Dunham-Bush 1E, Mepco 1E, and Armstrong TS-2. All valves haveTunstall orifices sized at 8 oz.
    Current connected load EDR= 1,259 sq ft, Original system EDR = 2,100 sq ft Vaporstat, 13 oz cutout, 4 oz cutin - Temp. control Tekmar 279.
    http://grandviewdavenport.com
  • ErikG
    ErikG Member Posts: 3
    Options
    Tie Rods?

    I assumed that the hex nuts at the top were for a tie-rod? How would I tell if this radiator had tie-rods?
  • ErikG
    ErikG Member Posts: 3
    Options
    Could this fix another problem

    I also find myself having to add water to the system around once a week. Could this cracked radiator cause all of this water leak out or is there another problem that I need to look into?
  • Dave in QCA
    Dave in QCA Member Posts: 1,786
    Options
    Look for them

    If your has tie rods, there will be 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom. So, the end section of the radiator will have 2 nuts at the top and 2 nuts at the bottom. When you look in between the sections, you will see steel rods running exposed from one end of the radiator to the other.



    If you can't see them, you don't have them.
    Dave in Quad Cities, America
    Weil-McLain 680 with Riello 2-stage burner, December 2012. Firing rate=375MBH Low, 690MBH Hi.
    System = Early Dunham 2-pipe Vacuo-Vapor (inlet and outlet both at bottom of radiators) Traps are Dunham #2 rebuilt w. Barnes-Jones Cage Units, Dunham-Bush 1E, Mepco 1E, and Armstrong TS-2. All valves haveTunstall orifices sized at 8 oz.
    Current connected load EDR= 1,259 sq ft, Original system EDR = 2,100 sq ft Vaporstat, 13 oz cutout, 4 oz cutin - Temp. control Tekmar 279.
    http://grandviewdavenport.com
This discussion has been closed.

Categories