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Is a Drop Header needed
Grey_Hair
Member Posts: 10
Hi everyone, first post, love the Wall. I am installing my first Peerless 211a-05,(couldn't get a WM) it has 2 - 6" tappings, manufacturer calls for only 1 -5" riser off the side, I plan on going with 1 - 6" riser off the side, rising 24" above top of boiler, then double 6" -90's . . . . . when can I reduce to 4" which is the size of the existing Main ?
Also this existing 4" Main (running 2 ways) is 7' above top of Boiler, is a Drop Header going to help/required? I will try to attach a pic of the existing leaker steamer. I am dropping the size from 1,250,000 to 800,000.
Also this existing 4" Main (running 2 ways) is 7' above top of Boiler, is a Drop Header going to help/required? I will try to attach a pic of the existing leaker steamer. I am dropping the size from 1,250,000 to 800,000.
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Comments
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Peerless piping
I have a Peerless 211a, piped as you intend, and I have always wished, (knowing more now), to have used both risers in 4 inch, with a 6 inch header to the equalizer. I think the pipe and fittings might be the same cost, as 6 inch is so much more expensive. 2 4 inch risers give you 25 square inches while 1 5 inch is 18.8 square inches. If you can, cut out the tee in the main, and run each leg separately into the new header.
Your old boiler met it's maker early because of that awful welded header throwing water out of the boiler, and torquing the sections as it expanded and contracted!
Peerless has the Mod-U-PAC 2-stage gas train, giving you full burn, or 75% burn-will you have that?--NBC0 -
drop header
I would use both tappings on the boiler....come up with 2 5" risers into a 6" drop header..you would have to check size of equalizer in installation manual our in one of dan's books.... use a full size tee in your drop header to go to your main them use full size nipple then use your 6"by 4" reducer to go to main....also have some help with you and a 60" wrench Paul s (p.s...I've never used pipe bigger than 6"so I really don't know of you can get threaded fittings bigger than that easily....you may be told to come up with 2 6"risers into a bigger sized header)ASM Mechanical Company
Located in Staten Island NY
Servicing all 5 boroughs of NYC.
347-692-4777
ASMMECHANICALCORP@GMAIL.COM
ASMHVACNYC.COM
https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/asm-mechanical-company0 -
Stepped Header
Assuming the slope is correct, is there any reason a 5" - 6" "combination header" would not work? I'm imagining a 5" lateral from the back tapping which enters the end of a 5" x 6" x 5" tee where the second riser joins it. This would keep the 6" diameter where there is steam from both risers but save a bit where only the back riser is flowing.
Not sure the cost savings of 5" over 6" would be big enough, but I can see where this might pencil out with something like a 2" riser joining a 3" header (or a 3" riser joining a 4" header.) Assuming the mains take off close to the second riser, it would also allow the use of off-the-shelf nipples for the limited (and predetermined) length of larger diameter pipe while leaving the freedom to field cut the other (smaller diameter) joints.0
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