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Quick Dumb Question: straight vs angled steam valves for radiators

Hopefully a quick question: Angled vs Straight steam valves for radiators.



Short version:

I am repiping a radiator. Is there any reason why I cannot come out a side of a wall with a straight through radiator valve(provided I can pitch it correctly), instead of coming up through the floor with an angled valve like the rest of my house? Single pipe parallel flow system.



The long version



I am getting myself into a bathroom renovation this summer, one of the things that I need to deal with is de-knuckelheading the piping for the radiator.



At some point in a previous kitchen renovation (the room under the bathroom) a steam riser was moved. At that time they added about 10 feet of pipe, and no less then 6, 90deg elbows to the riser, routed the pipe into an outside wall, and did I mention its all galvanized? Gee I wonder where the problem is....



So its all gotta go. And with the new bathroom layout it will be an almost straight shot from the basement to the radiator. The piping will be run up through a mechanical chase, (inside the building envelope, and still insulated with 1" fiberglass) and out the side of the chase and through a straight valve instead of up through the floor. Any problems with doing it that way. Is there a difference with using a straight through valve vs, and angle valve, as long as you maintain pitch. The horizontal run from the riser to the radiator is going to be less than a foot. And makes the tiling cleaner, and it makes one less penetration through my waterproof flooring system to deal with.



This is also the time to get rid of all the galvanized, and fix the way that the main turns down to become the return. It currently uses a tee with the steam from the main flowing straight through, and the leg of the tee down as the start of the return. And several feet of horizontal pipe past the tee before it turns up to become the riser. Basically its a fairly well loaded (or undersized) parallel flow loop that is forced to be a counter flow for the last few feet. On good days the radiator vent pants, on bad days it bangs. I think I can do better.



And I think I will add myself a plugged tee in case I want to add another main vent to this circuit. Because vents are our friends, and it will never be easier do it.



This is also the only radiator (28 EDR) on its own 30 foot horizontal run  1"NPT run from the boiler. It never worked when I bought this house, now with a Gorton no1 on the 3/4 return and a #5 on the radiator it actually heats pretty well. (until the radiator vent gets clogged from the galvanized)



The system is a Weil McClain PEG30, not grossly over sized, with pretty good venting. It rarely sees more than 12oz/in of pressure on most runs. Single pipe, parallel flow system.



I promise I will get pictures of the horrible mess the previous people made of this riser, once I get things opened up, for you viewing displeasure.



Thanks

Richard.
If you can't be good, at least be good at it.

Comments

  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 14,342
    As long as it's a gate or ball valve

    it will work. Never use a globe valve as it will cause water to back up in the radiator and bang.
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
  • Toymotorhead
    Toymotorhead Member Posts: 54
    Thank you.

    Thank you. It is one of those things where I know it will work fine in my head, but I really wanted to check with the experts. I have had good luck with the Matco-Norca valves on my other radiators, and they make a straight through.



    Thanks again,

    Richard.
    If you can't be good, at least be good at it.
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