Constant Circulation

Mpj

Hello All,

I have a customer with an oil fired W/M boiler which has six heating zones (one radiant) and a domestic zone. He wanted me to check out the "noise" coming from the pipes when the zones turn on. I found all the pipes are tight going through the floor and make expansion and contracting noise. Instead of trying to make the holes larger or insulate them I could put some type of outdoor reset and maybe make the zone constant circulation. What would be the best way to go about this or fix the problem.

Thanks

CMadatMe

You Could

But most likely not the problem. Is it one particular zone? Is the system zoned circs or valves? If I was betting man, I'd say the pump or pumps are over sized.

Mark Eatherton

Save your 1 gallon milk jugs...

Cut them into strips thick enough to go completely through the flooring and completely around, and overlap the pipe, and place them on the tight holes, tape them to the pipe and your noise problems associated with expansion and contraction through the floor pipe holes will disappear. THe polyethylene plastic acts as a lubricant to avoid the pipe contacting the floor and hanging up and causing the clicking and ticking.



ODR will alleviate the clicking and ticking, but will not eliminate it.



ME

Mpj

C/C

Thanks for both replies

Chris the problems seems to be on every zone. They are zoned with 007s.The owner would also like to add the ODR to maybe low his fuel cost.

Mark, all the holes are very tight against to pipes. I see in some spots that the pipes a touching all around 7/8" pipe 7/8" hole, gotta love the hardwood floor guys.

CMadatMe

Heat Loss

Should do one. You have a chance to provide this customer with a system solution to not only the noise but to save him fuel dollars.



If the radiant is just on a thermostatic valve not only can you give him boiler reset but you can reset that radiant via Taco I-Valve which would fit right in place of the thermostatic. No piping change.

Mpj

c/c

Chris,

 The problem is mostly the second floor, it have a mile of baseboard and piping. I could do a heat loss and compare to the install BB. I was thinking of using the I valve and the Taco fuel mizer. Drop it down to a minimum of 140 degrees and go.

CMadatMe

Pipe A Boiler

How about 2 I-Valves. One for the radiant, one for the baseboard and then pipe a boiler bypass to keep it seeing the majic 140. The 1hr investment in the heat loss and baseboard comparison could put dollars in yours and your customers pocket. With multiple I-Valves you'll give him great comfort.

Mpj

c/c

Sounds like a good idea. I will have to re-pipe the other zones also.