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Hey I'm yet another guy trying to do it all my self. My father was a mechanical engineer who specialized in heating and cooling and gave me some initial ideas on how to set up my system. Unfortunately he passed away a couple months ago and now I am trying to honour my commitmitment to him that I would get some professional help to bring my system online.
That being said I have taken my house plans into the local plumbing supply place who is doing a lot of design work for me so I know I have the right size boiler ect. I all ready have the basement 6" slab poured with 8 250' loops spread over 2500 sq. ft. The slab is on top of 2" of rigid styro insulation. and the basement walls are the ICF blocks with about 3" on each side being styrofoam and 8" concrete. I have 5 windows 36" X 48" in the basement At the time I was told by the supplier that it was about an R-40 rating, the height of the basement is 8' 6" and only has about 3' above grade. At the time I put in the loops my father did some calculations and advised me to run 4 loops around the outside working in so I pretty much have one for each side of the building the first two runs are 12" on center and the remainder is on 18" centers. My father advised me that would be enough. (I live in the prairies of Canada about the 54th parallel.) Now that I have seen the pro who is helping me he advises that in actuality the ICF blocks are really only about R-22 (I find that hard to believe because styrofoam SM is R-5/inch and I have 6" of the stuff.) And that I do not have enough heat lines in my basement.
Anyways I said all this because I am questioning a few things he has advised for my main floor. Some areas of the house have a 9' 8" ceiling and a few windows and he is advising that I will have a shortfall on my ability to transfer enough heat from the floor for my heating. And that I will in addition to the radiant floor heating have to install additional sources of heat, be it radiators or heat coils. I have my sub floor designed to hold a 2" concrete slab and plan on placing the heat lines at 6-12 inches (What ever is required) then pouring and finishing the concrete as the final floor no tile or wood on top and only a few area rugs. (Wife has allergies) Something just does not seem right I advised that I would have standard R-20 walls and R-50 for the ceiling. I can not beleive that I will not be able to get enough heat into the spaces where I have limited windows. In the main open area of the living room I have a14' high vaulted ceiling and lots of windows. (there I could accept that there could be a problem but not in the bedrooms and bathrooms where I have limited windows and a lower ceiling. His calculations for the house showed 160,000 Btu mine on the internet joe newbi came up about 20,000 less.
Another thing I wonder about in his quote was that he advises a fancy control box with mixing valves and zone pumps for every zone then goes one further specifying those fancy manifolds with balancing valves and flow meters on every loop (to date and for future loops I intend to make them all 230-250' each as the oxyPEXpipe come in 250' lenghts so it's pretty easy to keep them even. I was thinking that a more economical system would have 1 or 2 different primary and secondary loops reducing the temperature to the required (I would think 100F or something like that) then zone pumps for each area of the home 1 for the basement, 1 for the living room 1 for the bedrooms ect. ect. would suffice. I would be most interested in what some of you other professionals would suggest
So a few questions but really I am looking for any imput or your feelings on what I have said. I do have 2 direct questions.
1) Why after reading the story about Dan going to the church for so many years did he not do something to help the situation :) (Perhaps give some advice to people in similar circumstance.) And I mean advice on the making the heating more livable not the good advice he gave on not committing to solve all the churches problems.
2) Why would you want to have $300.00 12 port manifolds when you could build them out of copper ones and some 1/4 turn valves for about $100.00
Thanks In advance.