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Heating a 5 x 10m room to constant 48 degrees
Madhatter
Member Posts: 1
Hi
I'm looking for suggestions on how I can economically and reliably heat a 5 x 10m PCB test room and maintain a constant 48 degree's.
Looking forward to your suggestions. Regards
I'm looking for suggestions on how I can economically and reliably heat a 5 x 10m PCB test room and maintain a constant 48 degree's.
Looking forward to your suggestions. Regards
0
Comments
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Heating small room:
Electric.
Its the size of a small bathroom. It will cost you more to run mechanical piping to it than to run a wire. A quality thermostat will control a low temperature like that. Especially if it has no exposed to the outside air outside walls. Cellars don't count. If it is in the middle of a structure, and it is well insulated, you could probably heat it with a large light bulb.0 -
Constant 119 degrees test room
Hey Ice, you must have plenty going on in your bathrooms! How many people use them at the same time?
This room is 15+ feet by 30+, and apparently needs to be kept at 119 degrees F. (48 C.).
Is there only heat loss or will cooling be needed? Maybe a small mini-split would keep the temperature constant, if it can be set that high.--NBC0 -
"M"'s
I was going American and didn't notice the "M" after the 10M for meters.
A mini-split would fall into the realm of electric heat.
He didn't say what was going into this room.
And no mention of the fact the "48 degrees" was centigrade and not Fahrenheit0 -
PCB test room
Printed circuit boardsRetired and loving it.0 -
Like
Sometimes I really wish this site had a "like" button for posts like some others. Your response definatly made me smile NBC.Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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You could do this with radiators.
If the room was well insulated. Much depends on your definition of "economical," though.
A friend put together a truck to kill bedbugs. The business involves going to a house, loading all the furniture into the truck, turning on the boiler (and radiators) and raising the temperature inside the truck to a point that's about what you're looking to achieve.Retired and loving it.0 -
heating a pcb test room
the most simple is electric heat., no flue,no fuel ect. if you have ducting to the rooms already then a duct heater with different stages kw to keep the temp once the room heats up. might not be the most economical to run but the install could be simple. if it is a t-bar ceiling then electric panel heaters maybe.0 -
Electric Heat:
That's sort of what I said in the beginning.
However, is there heat loss or gain into the room? If the room is on the middle of a structure, there may not be any heat loss but the test equipment may give off heat and the room may go over the 95C temperature. Therefore, you may need a heat pump/mini split to control the temperature.
Where I work, the US navy built a Naval Facility that was so secret that even today, no one will say what it did. It wasn't what they did but how they did it. It closed down in 1976. The functions were taken up by satellites and other such things. There was a building that they did their feeds in. There was so much electrical equipment that they needed two 25 ton AC units just to keep the place usable, In the summer, was unbearable. Heat gain by electrical equipment is something to consider.0 -
Maybe
I'm missing something but depending on where this is located I would expect there to be a need for refrigeration as well if the room must be kept at a steady temperature. We're talking 118F which I'd think with some electronics running under load that could be exceeded under many conditions on a 100F summer day especially if its not on the 1st floor.
Where I work we have a small portable unit we use to test PCBs. I beleive it goes as high as 65C and as low as -30C or so. We often test at very cold temperatures as well as hot. Of course our unit is only a few cubic feet, not an entire room.Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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lol I noticed the m's
that's why i stared clear of this one, lol... Too much math for me, I have a hard enough time keeping track of inches and feet, never mind that guy Newton Metre and his sister Joule..
I would say the best way to heat a room like this is with constant air circulation a good old fashioned hydro air powered by a modulating condensing boiler, install a bumble bee with the sensor in the duct work, a little creative control setup and you will keep that room +-1/2*.... Just have to figure out the heat loss.... I would use a first co variable spped unit and install a heat pump on the A coil, this way when it was 50+ out side you would be running very efficient.... And you would have A/c for days it was needed.....
Figure a Traingle Tube Solo 110 with a 5 ton HXBX first co and an armstrong hp18lt heat pump would be a good start, but that stuffs not cheap...0
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