Adding baseboard steam rads: How?

vaporvac

When I originally put in my kitchen, I had to take out the steam radiator to allow for cabinets. I replaced it with an electric baseboard unit. I am soon going to putting in an old Chambers stove and this will require moving that run of cabinets. So, I'm wondering how hard is it to tap into the old piping and install a steam baseboard radiator? How well do these things work and how far away do they need to be from the kickplate? I allowed for this edr when sizing the tr50s, so I can handle the load. I'm just wondering if it's worth it while I have the cabinets, etc removed. The electric one has to run a good long time to heat the kitchen and few things are less welcoming than a cold kitchen.

I don't think I'm as interested in adding the HW loop for this space unless there's some advantage. Thank you.

Charlie from wmass

If you add baseboard

it should be piped two pipe. You can have the return enter an existing dry return if you do so with a water trap to keep the steam from entering the baseboard via the return. This also requires an air vent on the end of the baseboard. If the baseboard is less then 4 feet long you can pipe it simply as one pipe with a vent. It gets anchored directly to the wall.

vaporvac

this might work but...

Thanks for the quick reply, Charlie.  Hmmm... my system is already two pipe and the inlet and outlet are still there, but capped off so that aspect should work. I'm also trying to keep a vacuum so if I use the existing inlet and return can I do away with the air vent?







However, I am putting the cabinets back and was wanting to have the baseboard in front of the kickplate which would require a jog forward in the piping and attaching to the baseboard. Is that not a good idea? this is the only place it can go easily.

Hap_Hazzard

A baseboard won't work well under a cabinet.

Baseboards rely on convection, and it doesn't sound like it will get much under there unless you put a fan behind it. Then you'd be building a steam kickspace heater. Have you looked at the kickspace heaters that are available for hot water?

Charlie from wmass

yes do away with air vent

How tall is the kick plate? As long as pitch is maintained offsetting will not be an issue. You could make an indirect radiator if you have the head room below the kitchen. You would need to build duct work and hang it from the floor joist. It needs a return and feed grill cut into the floor.

vaporvac

Additional thoughts...

A kickspace heater is exactly what I was thinking of, but it sounds like it won't work with the steam rads. The floor is 100ys old mosaic tile, so I'm not going to cut into it. (Plus, I'm not keen on floor vents in kitchens and baths. I'm always spilling stuff.) It looks like adding the hot water loop is the way to go , although I thought they worked with convection also. Maybe they're just slimmer and have more space behind them.



I haven't checked out where the inlets/outlets are on the steam rads, but wonder if it would be possible to hang them vertically? I do have some wall space for that.

Hap_Hazzard

Hot water loop

A hot water loop could be used in two ways to heat your kitchen. First, you could install radiant panels under the floor. Second, you could run a kickspace heater or two.



The radiant panels might work well under that mosaic floor. Being 100 years old it is probably wet-bed construction, so you'd have a two or three inch slab of mortar under there that would hold onto the heat and release it slowly, much like the cast-iron radiators in the rest of the house.



The kickspace heaters could come in handy when you want to heat up the space quickly, but they will only work while the water stays hot. They might make a nice adjunct to the radiant subfloor, but I'm not sure they'd be worth the cost.

SWEI

under that mosaic floor

Great idea -- what's it look like from underneath?

Steamhead

If you're going to move the cabinets

find a place for a radiator, and put it there. This is the least complicated and most reliable solution. I wouldn't mess with that 100-year-old floor.



No one "has to" remove a radiator- but I've never met a kitchen or bathroom remodeler who didn't try to take out every radiator he/she saw. Then the room is cold- and by then, the remodeler has gotten paid and is long gone, so it's always the heating guy's fault.