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anyone using b100 biodiesel

straight up, not mixed?  i know if it's stored in the cold it gels, and if put in an old tank it breaks down the sludge and clogs filter and stuff, and is harsh on surtain rubbers.

so now with all that taken care of, has anyone has to do any     modifacations to the burner ,e.g. nozzle gpm, air, cad cell,ect... have you done a combustion test to suport these changes. my potential supplier has told me 99% off his customers have not needed any mods.

Comments

  • SWEISWEI Posts: 7,356
    watch your rubber

    NBR (Nitrile) seals or O-rings will be toast, along with pretty much every other conventional rubber used for in hoses, gaskets, etc.  PE & PP can weep a tiny bit over time, but they don't actually dissolve.  You need FPR (Viton) with anything richer than about B30.  The residual methanol in Biodiesel causes it to retain several times the water that petrodiesel does. This plus the somewhat aggressive nature of biodiesel can cause accelerated rusting of steel tanks.



    CFPP and cloud point are both in the range of typical winter temps, so it's not a set-and-forget deal in many cases.



    BTW, I'm a huge biodiesel fan.
  • billtwocasebilltwocase Posts: 2,385
    what SWEI said

    this stuff will be the nail in our coffin. Most filter gaskets, etc, are only good for up to 20% bio. We are still at the 5% minimum, but I only purchase filter kits with the green bio gasket. Some filter companies haven't heard of that new bio stuff yet, but they soon will when leaks start springing up. 
  • pipekingpipeking Posts: 252
    now lets talk about combustion

     maybe this should b posted on the m. wall, but only oil guys can burn bio. sooo..

    anyways, everyone started with dino fuel, but, switching to bio (100%) has there been any changes to burner setup?
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