Cracked radiator at vent

ThermalJake

I haven't been on the Wall for awhile, but I'm back.

The first picture is the radiator I had stored in my basement for a few years because my basement was being heated by the poorly insulated piping. I just finished designing the piping to hook it up; I planned to have it hooked up as a down-flow supply, with a wet leg to catch any condensate from the supply line, and drop to a wet return right out of the radiator. There is no trap, just an orificed inlet valve. I was going to replace the plug with a radiator vent of the proper size.

SIDE NOTE: this radiator was hooked up to hold boiler water without a hartford loop when I moved in. So it was simply convecting water...

Back to the story: I moved the return line from the right side to the left side, I cemented in the blocks and raised the radiator using a motorcycle lift, I bought all the fittings and pipes today so I could cut and thread each one... only one thing remains before shutting down and draining the water out of the hartford loop so I can attach the additional wet return to the system...

you guessed it: I had to remove a plug in that vent hole so I could prepare it for a radiator vent. And you guessed it again, it cracked when I tried to use the easy-out.

Well I guess since I'm running 2oz/in to 8oz/in of pressure, maybe the JB Weld will work. If not, I dont want to start piping if I have to find a new radiator...

This one is seven tubes, 20 inches high with 17 sections, so that makes 72.25 EDR.

Any avice is welcome... or even just observations.

Thanks,

Jake

Paul48

Curious

The radiators usually have several bosses in the casting that can be drilled and tapped for whatever vent location you want. Did you see a hex of a pipe plug?

nicholas bonham-carter

Cracked boss repair

That picture is rather fuzzy, so I can't see how long the crack is. If it is very short, you could drill out the tapping to the next size and retap for that size, and put a bushing in to fit the vent size. --NBC

Gordo

If I Am Viewing That Picture Correctly...

It looks to me like 4 cracks spreading at the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions.



And they are rather long cracks, rather long indeed.  If I were called to look at it and repair it, I would not be hopeful of achieving a warrantable repair.



As the owner of said radiator, and willing to risk a bit more, drilling it out and re-tapping a bushing MIGHT be an alternative, combined with properly installed JB weld to seal it.

 

Maybe.



I'd look for another radiator, just in case.

ThermalJake

Another boss

There is another one higher up. In fact it has good threads because someone had a water bleeder in it. I think it was drilled by someone later. I will post a pic.



No doubt I can use it, even if it is too high (It wont allow enough steam to fill the radiator before closing). But it gives me an idea about drilling another one on myown anyway. It may be a better idea to just plug this with JB Weld and start with a new one...?

ThermalJake

Bushing might work. pictures not great

Here are a few more pictures. I think these cracks are pretty short, but then again, sometimes they seem to go 90 degrees around the ytube. Hard to tell.

ThermalJake

As the owner...

... I guess I have little to lose. I was thinking that if I clean it up and find the cracks go part way around the tube, maybe I could slather some JB Weld around the whole thing and cover it with some kind of two-piece pipe repair clamp. Then once that is set, re-drill and tap (either with a bushing or not), or just drill and tap in another location.

This radiator is in the basement; it does not have to be beautiful.

The only reason not to do this, is if this radiator could be used by one of these guys (http://www.heatinghelp.com/article/9/Virtual-Trade-Show/236/Searching-for-Old-Radiators) and they'd rather have it before I start messing with it. Even if someone had one of similar size, and could use the old one, we could work something out.

Paul48

Tapping

I think you'd just open the cracks or blow a side off completely trying to tap that.I'd find another one with a comparable EDR, and replace it.

SWEI

if you have to save it

you could drill or grind it out carefully and (using the correct rod) weld in a new bushing, half coupling, or a weld-o-let.