New Boiler... Loving it!

Sil

About 16 years ago, when oil was 90 cents a gallon I bought a home with a coal to oil converted snowman in the basement. I knew nothing about steam heat... but before I even moved in I had the snowman ripped out and replace w a Dunkirk (model # 4ES1.85C - 259MBH). That boiler gave us fits quite often - an annual service contract was a must with this unit (and the oil company took a bath on that contract w me). A few years ago I was at wits end with surging issues, water hammers becoming more and more of an issue that I turned to the internet and found this site. I learned from the folks here that I had clogged returns, poor main venting, and a backwards hartford loop. Some of these issues I have been able to correct myself - saving thousands (thanks to all the help guys).



The final straw happened when hurricane sandy swept thru. While i did not sustain too much damage, I learned during that blackout that my above ground tank was weeping/leaking. I was committed to do a gas conversion (I already have gas service - 2" line). So that wasnt an issue.



At first I was trying to take the low cost route and looking to retrofit a Carlin e-g jet onto the Dunkirk. But the estimates seemed high. And swapping a new box didnt seem like that much more - since I can get a rebate on a new box. So I took the plunge. I nursed my Dunkirk along w DIesel (thanks to advice from the folks here) while i waited for the install date to come (I did have two no heat nights while waiting due to burner issues)... but I hope this crap stops now that I am on gas.



Well, the new Burnham IN6 (175 MBH)... which the folks on here thought may even be a bit oversized for my home. (maybe some of the problems I was having was due to an oversized boiler).



Well the install is done! And I have not heard a tick or hammer. WOW! Its so quiet. I cant hear it when it kicks on from the living area. Amazing. With the Dunkirk it seems the whole house shook. This performance is without a skim! The installer was very careful with wiping threaded pipe, but I may do a skim in a few weeks.



I wasnt crazy about the fact the the "front" of the boiler is facing a cinder block wall.... but it made for a easier install.



I have a couple questions. For the experts here:

1. Can I put a Tee (instead of the current elblow) where the pressure valve is and bush in a 1-3 lb gauge there so I can easily see pressure when I am walking by (I will also install one on the "front")



2. I have all the pipes removed from around the tank. Have pumped out much of the contents (gave it to a neighbor). But before I cut and clean the tank I called the local (and very large) scrap metal yard. They say they don't take tanks at all. Does anyone know where I can take it in the Metro NYC area?



Some pics for your viewing pleasure:

Before:

<img src="http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa262/silmarg/DSC_0110.jpg" alt="" />



After:

<img src="http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa262/silmarg/DSC_0223_zpsb472e736.jpg" alt="" />



<img src="http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa262/silmarg/DSC_0224_zpsf62aebef.jpg" alt="" />

Mark N

Tank removal

You better look into what your local codes are for tank removal. My tank was in my basement and didn't leak. I needed a permit, the tank was cleaned and cut up to remove from my basement and then was inspected. They also checked the that the fill and vent pipes were removed. I was required to give proof that what was removed from the tank was properly disposed of. After the tank was scrapped I needed to give a receipt to the town showing the tank was properly disposed of. Better to do this the right way now so in the future when you go to sell the house it doesn't cause any issues.

Sil

I have a permit

When my plumber pulled the permit for the boiler, he also got one for the tank removal. That said, I have not actually seen the permit. But I guess I will call the village to make sure its done on the up and up.



My village is very persnickety.

ChrisJ

Hartford loop

Is that hartford loop allowed to be installed like that?  It looks completely backwards.



Also, are you suppose to use a normal threaded ball valve for a gas line?  I really don't know, when I ordered my valves I bought ones specifically marked for gas.

BobC

You need a pigtail on the gauge

The 0-3 PSI gauge has to go on a pigtail, just remove the pressuretrol and use a T so you can then mount the Pressuretrol off one side and the 3 PSI gauge on the other, use a long enough nipple on the gauge so yo can see it without walking around the boiler.



You might want to ask the installer to install a nipple and valve on the skim tapping (the manual shows it's location) for you. You could do it yourself but getting the plug out is not easy.



Bob

Sil

Yes, its backwards...

The old one was backwards. This one is backwards.



Plumber insists that was never my old problem and guaranteed to swap it if there was any noise. So far he might be right.



As for the ball valve... I dunno. Gas company & village inspection hasn't happened yet. I will raise it then.

ChrisJ

Huh?

He insisted that because it was installed wrong before, to keep it wrong?



What kind of logic is that!?

Sil

Why isn't the 0-30 gauge on a pigtail...

and its installed the way its shown on the manual. Is it possible there is a pigtail in the jacket or in the block?

ChrisJ

0-30 gauge

The 0-30 gauge Burnham supplies has an internal siphon, or pigtail. If you look at it it should say so on the dial.



The 3PSI WIKA gauges commonly used here do not have an internal siphon therefore need to be after a pigtail.

Steamhead

No logic at all

he needs to fix it.



Unfortunately we hear this crap all the time. The most common is when we include adding main vents on a boiler replacement, some knucklehead who is also bidding the job argues the system didn't need main vents for the past 80 years, so why does it need them now?



You can't fix stupid!

Charlie from wmass

Ahyone else bothered by the

Tape on the breeching? I am sure you are happy with your job, I am not nit picking, That flue pipe needs sheet metal screws to secure it at each joint not tape.

ChrisJ

tape

I assumed there were screws under the tape?

I remember when i installed mine code in NJ requires 3 screws per joint, so I did 4. Really, I only did two per and realized it wouldn't pass so I added 2 more so everything looked even.



I thought some guys also added tape for extra protection?

Hap_Hazzard

Doesn't bother me.

It's not in my basement.

Hap_Hazzard

Ball Valve

I don't know what the code says, but I bet if you look at the lettering on the handle it will say "WOG." Guess what the G stands for. :-) As long as the number preceding "WOG" is greater than the gas line pressure it should be okay.

ChrisJ

WOG?!

I guess its Water, Oil, Gas?



I would still think using a nat gas valve with the different handle is a good practice. And Gas could very well mean air or other, not natural gas meaning not up to code.



I donno...

Wethead7

Steam

I would prefer a second steam riser on the boiler. This would help dry the steam. I also think a 3 psi gauge would be wise. I am not a fan of copper in a steam system.

SWEI

looks like the copper

is below the waterline.  That return extends a bit above, but is probably full of water much of the time.